1997 Ford Escort Problem with cold starting

Tiny
KEVPS
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD ESCORT
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 93,000 MILES
1997 Ford Escort LX 1.6 16v Zetec
When starting with engine stone cold it starts first time but after 15 to 30 seconds it labours and stops.
If I turn the key straight away it won't fire for about 20 seconds then when it does start I have to try and keep it going until the engine gets a bit of heat in it then it's fine and runs perfect.I always thought that it reminded me of an older car that has a choke and you switch it off too soon so the mixture isn't rich enough but I was told by an engine tuning firm that it's deposits built up on a valve stem and thats why it starts ok but as the valve stem expands with heatthe deposits make it stick and the engine labours and stops. Then after the engine warms a bit and the valve hole expands it frees the valve and the engine operates normal once again until the next cold start. He said it would cost £500 to remove the cylender head, remove the valves and clean them.
It's a lot of money I can't aford. Was their diagnosis correct?
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Sunday, January 24th, 2010 AT 11:13 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
Hello kevps

Welcome to 2CarPros.com

An engine starts normally when cold, but has hot starting problems. Check the residual pressure of the fuel system when the engine is shut off. If the system isn't holding residual pressure, the fuel inside the fuel rail may be boiling from the engine's heat. The cause here is a leaky check valve from the fuel injection supply manifold or a faulty fuel regulator. (see pictures)


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c1528008dd47_1.jpg



Unscrew the fuel pressure relief valve from the fuel injection supply manifold, replace with new one.

Install the valve and tighten it to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Run the engine at idle for 2 minutes, then turn the engine OFF and check for fuel leaks and proper operation.
if replacing the relief valve does not solve the problem, than the problem is with the fuel regulator.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c1528008dd3d_2.jpg



Now back to your other question .
definitely they are talking about the intake and exhaust valves.
Cleaning the valves and putting them back won't solve any problem , maybe for awhile unless EGR system have been checked and repair if found faulty.
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Sunday, January 24th, 2010 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
KEVPS
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If you read what I wrote properly you will see that I never said there was a hot starting problem.
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Sunday, January 24th, 2010 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
Hello_

Your engine suddenly quits running, but then starts again and runs normally when hot, in that condition cleaning the valves and putting them back may help. Verify that your engine is not burning oil, because that cause heavy carbon deposit on intake and exhaust valves or other combustion chamber deposits that do not respond well to normal levels of detergent in gasoline. Additional cleaner is needed, which can be added to the fuel tank or run directly through the injectors.
If the oil consumption is high, because of worn valve guides or valve guide seals, it is possible to replace just the valve guide seals without having to remove the cylinder heads or overhaul the engine. New valve guide seals can drastically reduce oil consumption.
That may save you money.
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Sunday, January 24th, 2010 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
KEVPS
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It's not burning oil.I check the level when I do my weekly check and it's always on the level.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 2:30 AM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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If your engine is not burning oil, then the deposit you mention in your earlier post must come from other combustion chamber deposits that do not respond well to normal levels of detergent in gasoline.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 8:06 AM

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