1995 Ford Escort Sport LX

Tiny
WYNRYPEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD ESCORT
1995 Ford Escort Sport LX 1.9L with 182,000 miles at first problems with the idle, acceleration, were the main issues. When it is at a complete stop, it idles rough, then dies. So, I check the filters, changed them. Still happened. Went and changed the fuel filter, still happened. Then one day, it stalled and did not start, so I go to change the pump, and found out about the inertia switch, I pressed it and it started up again, the problem was still there so I went and replaced the the fuel pump, still happened, I can hear the fuel pump now though, sometimes.

i couldn't use my code scanner because the check engine light was not on, plus it was not maintaining a correct idle, it came back with
---538 ----"insufficient rpm change during dynamic response test or invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems."

i ran a KOER self test, and I think it came back with
--- code 33 ---"EGR Valve position (evp) sensor or pressure feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve is not opening or, not seated properly."

And now today, the car started to die, A LOT MORE than it ever has. When I was driving home, on interstate 880, it acted really funny, loosing power, when going at a steep incline in the road loosing a lot of power, sometimes seeming to drive a lot faster than normal, then to loose power while my foot was on the gas, oh yea, my check engine light is now on.
now, I think I need to check my fuel pressure regulator? Where is that?
my relay. Where is that and how do I change it.

i drive auto parts for a living. I try not to ask the guys in the shop to who I deliver the parts to questions about the car, they seem to be to busy or to whatever to help, so I donated some money to get this answered ASAP, my job relies on it!
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Friday, December 1st, 2006 AT 3:57 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
CATCH_15
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If you got a code for the EGR valve, try replacing it. A lot of the time though, In my own experience, when the car starts running rough and experiencing the same symptoms as you, the mass air flow sensor has gone bad. Fords are notorious for faulty MAFs.
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Friday, December 1st, 2006 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
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I went to a mechanic, who hooked it up to his machine which iis a little more easier to read and understand than the 25 dollar code reader I bought at all parts auto, and it said that it was my o2 sensor, along with two other codes that were triggered I think because of the sensor, before I put it on could it be the o2 sensor, and if it isn't should I rplace the egr, or the egr solenoid?
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2006 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
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I went to a mechanic, who hooked it up to his machine which iis a little more easier to read and understand than the 25 dollar code reader I bought at all parts auto, and it said that it was my o2 sensor, along with two other codes that were triggered I think because of the sensor, before I put it on could it be the o2 sensor, and if it isn't should I rplace the egr, or the egr solenoid?
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2006 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
CATCH_15
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If the code says the O2 sensor is bad, replace it and go from there. Your's shouldn't be too expensive and since you deliver parts, I'm guessing you get a discount.
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2006 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
WYNRYPEN
  • MEMBER
Ok now I replaced the o2 sensor, and it still is happening, now though when it starts it idles really rough quciker than it did, and dies quick. I mean basiclly it starts then shuts off just as quick as it started, and now, my battery light is on. When the car is running, for the 10 seconds it runs :x :x im getting discouraged which one of these would it be?

1. Mass air flow sensor
2. Egr valve or solenoid

or can it be the fuel pressure regulator?
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2006 AT 9:36 PM
Tiny
WYNRYPEN
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Testing fuel pressure. Test for proper fuel pressure with gauge on fuel rail, most FI (Fuel Injected) cars run between 35 and 65 psi. If no or little fuel pressure and there is power present the fuel pump, the pump needs replacing, it is the number one auto part replaced in today's FI vehicles. I HAVE ALREADY PUT A NEW PUMP AND FILTER IN THE CAR

c. Test for weak ignition spark. Remove spark plug wire. Insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, attach spark plug to ground then crank engine. You should observe blue spark between spark plug gap. If a yellow spark is observed, your ignition coil is weak and needs to be replaced. If your spark is not consistent you may need a ignition module.

D. Inspect the Main PCM Relay. If the PCM relay fails it will shut down the engine management system. This relay carries high amperage and is prone to failure. To test install new relay then test drive.

E. Testing the ignition switch. This test requires a electronic test light. When vehicle dies test the power side (+) of your ignition coil with the key on it should light. If your test light is not lighting suspect your ignition switch or ignition relay.

- - - - -
DO ANY OF THESE APPLY TO MY PROLBLEM?[/B]
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2006 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
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Please someone answer this problem
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Sunday, December 3rd, 2006 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
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Now I tried to start the car, and now I got white smoke coming out the back! What in the hell is up!
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Monday, December 4th, 2006 AT 2:42 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Sounds like you have a blown headgasket.
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Monday, December 4th, 2006 AT 6:22 PM

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