In last 500 miles or less, new after market fuel pump by gas station mechanic as well as new distributor on the same Ã¢ï¿½ï¿½no start repair ticketÃ¢ï¿½ï¿½. Came back with no top end power on freeway-- but happy to be able to get places. Now it intermittently wont start, or stalls while driving, or momentary loss of power for fraction of a second. Auto electrician had van for 4 days with no symptoms. So I barely made home and it alternates between all's perfect to only a couple random ignites but wont fully ignite enough to bother releasing the key from starter position. It stalls or seemingly skips a ignition spark or fuel starvation momentarily enough ( every other time I drive it) that I'm afraid to drive it. (But to buy another used van will take 2 weeks to transfer inventory inside vanÃ¢ï¿½ï¿½so Id like to fix this one, but tired of throwing money at it and getting inferior products.)
One day, the correlation of stalling in response to by hitting the electronic cruise control unit that has the cable to throttle body on it, was convincing enough after six or more attempts, getting a stall on second to forth beat each time, that I unplug and taped that electrical connector,
yesterday I replaced the Ignition control module(after market) fender mountÃ¢ï¿½ï¿½but it skipped a few beats on residential street test drive.
I have ordered a fuel pressure gauge without relief valve so I can drive around with that installed.
Almost two years ago it would not start, but hours later started right up and drove flawleesly for 1 Ã‚ ½ years. Although flawless includes ( I've become numb to an almost unperceptable) persistent mini miss upon sweeping turn and steep hill climb that's been present fore 5 years ever since I have owned the van.
KOEO as follows 111, 10,112,117,122,327,638
KOER codes 412
I can look up those codes, but I'm at a loss for what that means and next steps, especially with so many codes. Would having the van engine cover off inside the van keep gauges too cool-not up to operating temperature? This the first time Ive gathered codes.
I could be wrong, but it seems to die shortly after making sweeping intersection turns and accelerating-but how does that connect to no starts after driven fine and parked at my destination problem-free.
I've jumpered by-passed the inertia switch during stationary testing, and am 98% sure it was jumpered when experienced a major no start episode that we walked away from till next day and then it started fine. I have not driven with inertia bypassed- it seems unsafe when Im loosing engine and therefore power steering and power brakes.
Mild San Diego climate. I'd appreciate any help, thoughts, suggestions.
have the same problem?
Tuesday, October 19th, 2010 AT 1:46 PM