1993 Ford Bronco Engine misses, stutters, wont start until

Tiny
TMBKB
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD BRONCO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
1993 bronco gets hot and then loses power, misses, and bucks. Wont start until cools down. Temp gauge shows to be in mid normal range, but is hot. Can smell exhaust and gas odor. Fuel emer shut-off not activated. After it cools, engine starts right up. Pump was recently replaced; had valve job; head job; etc. Something seems to be interfering with fuel. When hot and u start it, engine seems to miss and either dies or after pumping gas, it stutters and then starts to run.
Sunday, September 13th, 2009 AT 11:30 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Check ECT and ignition module. Module can be tested at the parts store.
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Sunday, September 13th, 2009 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
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Will check the ECT, but that shouldn't cause the engine to cut-out or miss, or? Why would an engine module cause this kind of problem?
Thanks
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Sunday, September 13th, 2009 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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If ECT is bad it will be difficult or not start because it acts like a choke on fuel injected vehicles. Ignition module supplies spark along with the coil, if mod is going, one of the signs is hard/no start after missing and cutting out...coil too! If check engine light is on, lets read the codes, write them down and post results. Do this and count the flashes...Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the ke on engine off, then again with it running.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Self_Test_95_3.jpg

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Monday, September 14th, 2009 AT 2:24 AM
Tiny
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1. No check engine light ever comes on.

2. Temp gage seems to operate properly - when in traffic it goes up and when on road it goes down.

3. This problem doesnt occur all the time, only when motor gets really hot. Then when it cools down, starts just fine.

Will check codes, but will take time. Any other ideas I can check at the same time, ie - sensors.
Thanks
kelly
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Monday, September 14th, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Temp gauge uses a temp sening unit, not the same as the ECT! (engine coolant temp) sensor. Check engine light should come on as soon as you turn the key to the on position, before you turn it to start, then go out after the engine starts? the one you want to check is on the thermostst housing, the one for the gauge is on left front corner of the engine. If you have an Ohm meter test it with these values.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_ect_Range_1.jpg

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Monday, September 14th, 2009 AT 12:46 PM
Tiny
TMBKB
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OK, Cool. Will have to do my code reading tomorrow AM (Tues), no choice. Will check everything I can and then post the codes.
Thanks for your help.

Ps - truck acted up again today. Just drove 2 miles to the store and then when I came out, it started and then sputtered for 10-20 seconds, exploded some gas and then stopped. All it would do then is spin motor, not even try to fire, like it wasnt getting gas or no spark.

1 hour later, all was well and it started just fine.

Kelly
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Monday, September 14th, 2009 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Check for codes then this: Start with the basics, and work your way up, Last tune up was? Wires plugs ALL filters? If all that is ok, check for a stuck EGR, then test fuel pump pressure, If it won't restart, determine what's missing, the engine needs three things to run, Spark at all plugs, gas to all cylinders, and compression in all cylinders, tho an engine may run lacking one in one cylinder, it won't run very well!
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm
and this one!
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Monday, September 14th, 2009 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
TMBKB
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As before, the engine runs perfectly, perfectly until it gets hot in traffic; runs good until you shut it off; then it wont start; acts like its getting fuel for the 1st few spins, then there is no firing at all.

SO, its getting spark, pressure, fuel, and all the good stuff, until it gets very hot. Coolant overflow tank never overflows and check engine light does not come on. All the basics are there, until it gets very hot and the temp gauge is still in normal mode.
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Tuesday, September 15th, 2009 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
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OK, did code tests. Did KOEO and got codes 11 and 1111, then from CM got codes 179 and 332 and that was all.

When I did KOER, I got the 4 flashes and performed the ritual exactly and did not get the single flash to indicate for me to press the throttle. Did this twice and could not get the single flash for me to continue the test.

?
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Tuesday, September 15th, 2009 AT 11:23 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_179_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_332_1.jpg


Upper intake is full of carbon. Remove EGR and clean the ports, May need to remove upper intake, clean out the carbon under it. The idle air control on the side of your throttle body is full of carbon as well, Ford recommends not cleaning these, just replace it, does not always set a code! ECT NEEDS to be tested have you done this yet!?
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Wednesday, September 16th, 2009 AT 2:26 AM
Tiny
TMBKB
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I will check those this morning. However, no offense intended:

There is a specific "thing" that causes the engine to 'not start' after it gets hot and you turn it off, wait a few minutes, and then try to start it again.

The engine is not getting fuel when this happens. Will the PCM or EEC shut off fuel when the ECT or something else gets hot.

Remember, the engine is not overheating. These beasts are huge and get hot, but it is not overheating.

I do appreciate your help

kelly
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Wednesday, September 16th, 2009 AT 9:18 AM
Tiny
TMBKB
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Tested Ignition module and was bad on the Low RPM test, so replaced it. Naturally that would not solve problem. Here is something that I forgot ( senior moment ):

On a long trip about 2000 miles ago, I was travelling about 65 mph and truck started shifting from 1900 rpm to 3000 rpm; would do this for a few seconds and shift down; then would shift up again. Did this 5 or 6 times and then engine started missing very badly; then it appeared to detonate gas like a backfire, but was coming from engine compt. Temp gauge was in mid norm range. Engine then died and I pulled to side of road. Then, coolant overflow tank filled up and about a pint ran over, that was it.

About 30 min later engine started just fine and ran ok.

?
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Wednesday, September 16th, 2009 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
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Here are my tests:

koeo - as before 179 and 332.

Koer - 311 thermactor air system inoperative and
632 - OD cancel switch not changing states (e40d).

Have not tested ECT yet
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Wednesday, September 16th, 2009 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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If hard to steat when hot only, no gas, check pump pressure and pressure regulator. Check for power at the pump as well.
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
https://www.2carpros.com/affiliate/uid/merlin2021_1
Tools available here!
ECT act as the "choke" on EFI cars and light trucks....
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Thursday, September 17th, 2009 AT 2:31 AM
Tiny
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Again - thats just a symptom. Not a cause.
Something is causing this. Remember, the engine is not overheating, its operating at normal temp.

So, back to square 1.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2009 AT 7:51 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Look you you either have power at the fuel pump or not, which is it? If you have power, then perform the pressure test, symtom or whatever you want to call it!
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Thursday, September 17th, 2009 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
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Barf! No more answers from you, OK.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2009 AT 3:38 PM

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