1989 Ford Bronco After changing coolant sensor/sender

ARTEST7

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1989 FORD BRONCO

Electrical problem
1989 Ford Bronco 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

After changing water pump, thermostat, coolant sensor and sender(temp gauge now works!), My 1989 Bronco II 2.9L 5 Speed fuel injected engine has difficulty cold starting "which never had that problem prior." It wants to stall in the morning if I don't increase the RPM's until warmed up. Recently the "Check Engine" light has been coming on intermittently and now it's come to a point where it won't start at all. It also seems to be using up more fuel. Fuel or Electrical problem? How can I check the Check Engine Codes? Thanks in advance! -A

5 Replies

MHPAUTOS

MECHANIC
31,938 POSTS

Hi there,

You will need a scanner to check these codes, I would also be re checking the coolant temp sensor as these often cause this problem, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)

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Saturday, September 4th, 2010 AT 7:41 AM

ARTEST7

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4 POSTS

I disconnected the fuel line at the rail (to the rear of fuel filter) and no fuel pressure. when the key is turned to second position. However, I did hear the pump(in-tank) turn on. Dropped the tank, pulled the pump and the sock and filter it didn't seem dirty. Is there any way to check the pump without submerging in gas/water? The pump motor still runs after connecting to 12v. Could it have been the fuel regulator preventing pressure from the rear even though it's located in the front? Or, perhaps a clogged fuel housing(sending) unit?
Thanks in advance!
AE

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 6:57 AM

MHPAUTOS

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Hi there,

You must not run the pump out of fuel as you will over heat it very quickly, I would be banking on a bad pump, although the motor may still be working.

Mark (mhjpautos)

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 7:34 AM

ARTEST7

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4 POSTS

Thanks Mark. I sure hope so because I read, "if the regulator is stuck open, the fuel pump will NEVER develop pressure."
This comment is what concerns me. If the fuel regulator could cause no pressure getting to the rail. Doesn't make sense. Anyway, I bought the pump assembly and will install today. Hopefully, it was the old pump's impellers.
I just don't want to reassemble everything just to find out that there still isn't any pressure getting to the rail because of a regulator.
I'll be using a bicycle pump (bummer) to try and blow out any build up in the lines as well.
This has taken me twice as long as anticipated. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
AE

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 8:14 AM

MHPAUTOS

MECHANIC
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Even if the regulator was stuck open through its normal range of operation you would still have pressure, the reg would just about have to break up internally for your problem to happen, pump is still looking good to me.

Mark (mhpautos)