Engine idles fine when starting then stalls when accelerating and decelerating

PEANUT2015

MEMBER
1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
2.5L
V6
2WD
AUTOMATIC
184,000 MILES

Hi I have been using the guidelines set up in the engine performance section for common issues with engine stalling. I've checked the following troubleshoot tasks. Cleaned and checked vacuum hoses to throttle body and EGR valves for vacuum leaks. Disconnected and reconnected for power failure and any source of malfunction one sensor at a time. MAF. TPS. I A intake valve and Oxygen sensor. Checked and cleaned air filter. Boot cracks, Cleaned all battery connections positive/negative and ground, No blown fuses or loose relay circuits. Replaced the Crankshaft sensor, throttle body gasket and TPS sensor. Idle Air intake valve and fuel filter was replaced about a year ago and my next move is the fuel pump but before I replace it how do you know if the EGR valve is stuck open? The only symptom is when giving gas to engine either gas pedal or throttle cable then it stalls. I can't drive it at all.

7 Replies

WRENCHTECH

EXPERT

Have the computer scanned for stored trouble codes and post the numbers here.

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Saturday, August 15th, 2015 AT 4:39 AM

PEANUT2015

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I forgot to mention I do have a OBD2 reader. When the engine started stalling when decelerating was the only factor the check engine light did come on and got P0108 when driving to work then multiple codes on the way home, PO108, PO113, PO118, PO123 and P1768. All of these codes read circuit high input at MAP, TPS, Engine coolant, and Intake air I heard a high pitch noise coming from the TPS and replaced it. I disconnected both TPS and Idle air intake valve connections before disconnecting MAP sensor to make sure which one was malfunctioning. I used the code reader and got 0 codes. My first assumption was that my cars battery connections at both terminals and negative ground cable to engine was corroded somewhere inside insulated power harness and was the source but car kept stalling.I went ahead with replacing the throttle, EGR, upper intake manifold and plenum gaskets. I cleaned all four O2 sensors. I haven't considered the MAP sensor being the suspect. Should I?

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Saturday, August 15th, 2015 AT 6:47 PM

PEANUT2015

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Hi just a quick note on the code readings. The check engine light has illuminated or came on twice in a three week period. The day I drove it to work POI108 and PO113 then back home with those first two codes plus PO118, PO123 and P1768. Without me interfering. Today was the second time and yes I probably did induce the codes. They are same first two codes PO108 and PO113. High input My battery light on dashboard came on when the car first began to stall The battery was 4 years old and well past the life cycle. Today the battery light came on but with new battery. I only cleaned the outside of O2 sensors mainly the threading just to prepare in case. To tell you the truth I had not removed the intake air temperature sensor until today. It was charcoal like on the metal end part that gets inserted when threading to tight. MAP sensor housing was a little dirty.

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Sunday, August 16th, 2015 AT 2:24 AM

WRENCHTECH

EXPERT

The battery light has nothing to do with the quality of the battery. It means that the charging system is not recharging the battery and if it runs down too much the engine will die.

Ou need to start tracking down those codes if they continue to appear. You are having issues with most of the sensors and if you are not the one causing it then look for something common to all like the 5v reference signal. If one of those sensors is shorted it could effect the reference signal to all others. If you don't understand how the system works and how to diagnose it, then you are going to need a local tech to look at it. Just stop unplugging stuff with the key on.

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Sunday, August 16th, 2015 AT 5:33 AM