Saturday, May 17th, 2025 AT 12:02 PM
So I noticed a few months back that my car listed above LS model was starting to sound a little rough when idling and her power to "git up n go" was slightly lagging. I just purchased the car in Sept of 2024 and immediately had oil changed, new battery installed, and both front and rear brakes/rotors replaced and knew it was coming up time to change her oil again and rotate her tires here soon and figured it was probably past time to change the spark plugs and coils, etc, so I would do all that together at the same time. I also already had it planned to replace all the parts to the front suspension then, too. Well, it ended up I wasn't able to get to it all right away, but it all did get done except for the spark plugs and ignition coils over the last 2 months. During that 2-month time span I (very mistakenly) let a friend borrow my car and he bottomed out extremely hard on a massive dip in the road meaning he didn't see the sign that said Warning Massive Dip Ahead Slow Down to a Near Stop Dips. The end result was now the sway bar links, which hadn't been replaced just yet now needed to and pretty quickly at that. Within that same event, the rough idle got worse, check engine light came on along with traction control light and OBD II scanner started popping up all kinds of codes. The global had codes for Throttle Actuator Control Module, MAP Sensor. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, and 5V Reference 1 Circuit; ABS system on scanner had codes for Control Module Power Circuit; Chevy OEM scan system had Engine Oil Pressure Sensor (High and Low), Immobilizer Key Incorrect, Throttle Actuator Control Module and Engine Control Module. It also stalls and dies while driving, and I discovered while trying to get home one day that if you take the Positive Cable off the battery post and then put it back on the car will start back up. That's how I managed to make it home that day without having to have it towed. It also says engine power is reduced, A/C and cruise control stopped working, and half the time the radio doesn't work. The last thing that happened was it wouldn't start at all one day when at the post office and we tried to jump it off and did a lot of trying to start it, wait 5 minutes and try again kind of thing and ended up pulling it home. I replaced the starter, and it now starts every time but it's very slow to stop to recognize the ignition has started the car, like it's still turning the flywheel or something. I replaced the Transmission Control Unit but that didn't resolve the issues, and my friend who broke the sway bar links then broke the MAP sensor (that was reading 0% voltage) so he replaced that recently. I've cleaned the throttle body, which wasn't too dirty and the MAF sensor is good. I'm thinking the process of elimination is indicating ECM. Could this be the issue? Is there anything else it could possibly be that I'm missing or overlooking something? I'm at my wits end on this and can't afford to invest much more money in it at the moment.