Saturday, February 15th, 2020 AT 9:27 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 2009 BMW X5
- 6 CYL
- 4WD
- AUTOMATIC
- 108,000 MILES
The park brake control unit is not working
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The park brake control unit
12 Replies
JOETECHPRO
- MECHANIC
- 705 POSTS
Hey NASER NASER,
So if the reset doesn't work and you have a mechanical fault code I would advise trying to disconnect the EMF control unit leave it disconnected for 10 minutes and then plug it back in and retry.
After that if there is no change then I would advise checking for power and ground at the control unit connector.
With the unit plugged in and ignition on check for voltage between pins 11 and 13.
Then check for voltage between pins 1 and 4
Let us know what you get here. You should have battery voltage - approx. 12V
Regards, Joe
So if the reset doesn't work and you have a mechanical fault code I would advise trying to disconnect the EMF control unit leave it disconnected for 10 minutes and then plug it back in and retry.
After that if there is no change then I would advise checking for power and ground at the control unit connector.
With the unit plugged in and ignition on check for voltage between pins 11 and 13.
Then check for voltage between pins 1 and 4
Let us know what you get here. You should have battery voltage - approx. 12V
Regards, Joe
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Tuesday, February 18th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
Can I unplug the harness from both units to check or how can I check for power with the multimeter while they are both connected?
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2020 AT 8:52 AM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
I only see one box on top of the differential, where is the other one?
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2020 AT 9:51 AM
JOETECHPRO
- MECHANIC
- 705 POSTS
Hey NASER NASER,
The park brake control unit is one unit mounted above the differential as you describe.
There will be two park brake cables coming out of the unit and one plug connection.
The plug connection is X10375 shown in the pictures below.
You shouldn't need ignition on to check for power here as they show permanent feeds on the diagram. I would test with ignition on just to be sure.
Please unplug the unit, turn the ignition on and check for power between the pins 11 and 13, pins 1 and 4 as I said previously.
Pins 11 and 13 will be the main feed/ground for the motor and pins 1 and 4 will be control unit power and ground.
It sounds like you have input from the switch so if these power and grounds check out okay I would then inspect the park brake mechanical system. If this checks out okay I would replace the park brake control unit.
Regards, Joe
The park brake control unit is one unit mounted above the differential as you describe.
There will be two park brake cables coming out of the unit and one plug connection.
The plug connection is X10375 shown in the pictures below.
You shouldn't need ignition on to check for power here as they show permanent feeds on the diagram. I would test with ignition on just to be sure.
Please unplug the unit, turn the ignition on and check for power between the pins 11 and 13, pins 1 and 4 as I said previously.
Pins 11 and 13 will be the main feed/ground for the motor and pins 1 and 4 will be control unit power and ground.
It sounds like you have input from the switch so if these power and grounds check out okay I would then inspect the park brake mechanical system. If this checks out okay I would replace the park brake control unit.
Regards, Joe
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Wednesday, February 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
There is power between both of these twi sets of pins, using a test light. Removed the actuator, no loose wires or broken pieces. I connected the motor while in there to a battery source, didn't move, removed the motor board connectors and removed it from the case and it moves, removed the wheels on I side and all look good none are broken. Weird this is, once I install the motor into its case and install the shaft that pulls one of the brake cables it doesn't turn with battery supply, and hard to turn with hand, even though everything looks good and nothing is broken. Is it possible that motor is weak?
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Wednesday, February 26th, 2020 AT 5:22 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
When I unscrewed the passenger side cable I tried to push it back towards the wheel but the cable was not going back in its hollow tube. I suspected something, took off the wheel and disc and the cable was broken. Wasn't even connected.
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Thursday, February 27th, 2020 AT 1:52 PM
JOETECHPRO
- MECHANIC
- 705 POSTS
Hey NASER NASER,
Perfect!
Nice work, looks like you have found the problem.
I would advise doing a complete check of the park brake to ensure nothing is seized.
Hook it back up and test, please do let us know how you go with the repair.
Regards, Joe
Perfect!
Nice work, looks like you have found the problem.
I would advise doing a complete check of the park brake to ensure nothing is seized.
Hook it back up and test, please do let us know how you go with the repair.
Regards, Joe
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+1
Thursday, February 27th, 2020 AT 4:02 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
After putting everything together with a new cable for the passenger side and a new motor inside the control box, I tried to pull the e-brake and still the same message, but this time there is not even any noise as if it is trying like it did before it used to make at least a noise. When I removed the control box I let the car down and was driving it until I get the passenger side cable. And I was getting a code for EMF or something like that which is because the e-brake connector was not connected to anything, so I drove it for 10 days, not sure if some dirt got in the connectors and caused a fuse to blow or what, but connecting the harness does nothing, usually it will immediately give me a noise on the dash and the yellow light, but connecting it now won't do anything. Still have the yellow light though.I tested the motor outside and everything was working fine. The 129 fuse in the back is okay.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 2:21 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
It makes a clicking noise if I clear the code but then comes back and does nothing. Then I cleared it two more times. Now no noise at all and has this code.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 4:02 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
I did all of that while right wheel was still up, so I suspected the wheel not to move and it didn't by hand. So I put the wheel back and put the car down when put in gear barely moves, definitely stuck. Even though I pulled on the emergency cable which has not yet been attached to the trunk.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 4:36 PM
NASER NASER
- MEMBER
- 836 POSTS
This thing was so stuck, so I removed the mounting bracket again and tried to remove the cables but they were so tight because the brake was on and won't release, but then I pulled hard on the emergency cable release in the trunk and it released it. Went in and tried the parking brake button after I reset the code and you can hear winding of the gear and then when it stops the yellow light comes back again and the codes sets again.
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Thursday, March 26th, 2020 AT 8:14 AM
KEN L
- MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
- 42,861 POSTS
Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can hear the noise? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 11:55 AM
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