Driver Side Blend Door Actuator Location and Replacement?

Tiny
FORTRESSOFBLANKETON
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 FORD ESCAPE
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
This car has dual climate control. With the AC on full blast, the driver side is blowing hot air while the passenger side is blowing cold air.

I replaced the cabin air filter and recharged the refrigerant but the problem persists. I'm thinking it is the blend door actuator broken and set to the wrong position to not close the "flap" all the way.

This is my SIL's car that I will work on so I am unsure if it was ever clicking.

Does anyone have a location and steps for the driver's side blend door actuator? I believe I need to remove the knee air bag so I will take that into consideration as well.
Friday, June 27th, 2025 AT 7:03 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 52,648 POSTS
Yep, this does sounds like the drivers side blend door actuator is bad, here is the location and directions to help replace it. They don't always click when they go bad FYI. You will need to remove the lower part of the dash panel on the drivers side. The mounting screws might be a little tough to get to so be ready. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes, the actuator should self calibrate.
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Saturday, June 28th, 2025 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
FORTRESSOFBLANKETON
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi Ken,

Thank you for sending this over - it was really helpful.
I did this yesterday. Here were the steps:

Disconnected battery
Pulled ODB port cover
Pulled panel underneath steering wheel and next to door
Pulled knee airbag
Accessed the blend door actuator
Undid both screws with a t-15 screwdriver
Plugged in new blend door actuator
Connected battery to get the teeth to the correct position on the actuator
Disconnected battery and reassembled everything in reverse

After I was done, the battery was low and wouldn't start the car. I took it to Walmart, and these said the amps were good, but the charge was low. They charged it, I put it back in, and the car started up and my SIL drove home.

This morning the car wouldn't start again though. I connected everything back up correctly, but something must be drawing power. Do you have any thoughts before I open everything back up again to check all the connections?
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Monday, June 30th, 2025 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, it sounds like the battery needs to be replaced. Can I ask how old the battery is? If more than 4 years I would get a new one.
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Monday, June 30th, 2025 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
FORTRESSOFBLANKETON
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The battery is only 6 months old so I figured the battery is okay.
It seems to me like a parasitic draw after the actuator swap just with the timing of the battery dying right after I swapped that part out.

I was thinking of in order:
Check fuses
Replace battery
Open it back up and see if the new actuator is pulling power with the car turned off
Take it to a mechanic to diagnose

Do you recommend I try anything else?
Really appreciate your help here also
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Monday, June 30th, 2025 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay, this will be easy to check, please remove the fuse # 71 on the BCM fuse panel at the right center of the dash. This is the only circuit to the HVAC system that stays live when the key is off. Let me know :)
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Monday, June 30th, 2025 AT 11:24 AM
Tiny
FORTRESSOFBLANKETON
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Hey Ken, so you were right about it being battery related. It turns out one of the battery cables was bad and had to be replaced.
I really appreciate your guidance and support here, this was a good project!
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Thursday, July 3rd, 2025 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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You are welcome, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Friday, July 4th, 2025 AT 9:08 AM

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