Doors locks not operating correctly?

I am attaching the location below on the location. However, I am also attaching the testing of this system if you would like to confirm this is the issue however it sounds like you have a pretty good idea that this is the issue.

The manual does not specifically state that you have to program it and they do not give a process for the replacement procedure, so I cannot confirm this for you. I have not replaced one of these parts before so I am not sure. However, in most cases the receiver does have to be programmed so that it recognizes the key that is inserted as being correct.

I am attaching also, what I am looking at to say this which is the registration process for this entire keyless system and it does not list this module.

Let me know what questions you have. Thanks

Okay, thanks. I unplugged this unit, my red door light stayed on in dash and neither sliding side doors opened. I don't think this is my problem. When I took it to dealer they would not specify what part. Any ideal what part is bad? Thanks

I am not sure I understand what the issue is. You were looking for the door lock receiver module so I am not sure what the issue is.

Does you door ajar light stay on all the time? If so, unplugging this module won't cause it to go out but I think I understand your thinking if that is what is happening. If you are thinking that if the issue is in the module that the light would go out if you unplug it, then this is not accurate.

The door ajar light comes on when there is an open door. It knows this because the switch is an open circuit or the module thinks there is an open circuit. So unless the module tells the cluster that all doors are closed, it just defaults on.

Let me know what the specific issue is and we can try to figure out what the testing is that we will need to do. Thanks

Okay, my red door ajar light stays on it runs the battery. Battery drains ever other day if I don't start it up every day. It's a handicapped accessible van you drive it from a wheelchair. First I took it to superior van in Lexington, Kentucky they do modifications on vehicles like this they worked over 8 hours on it, they took all door panels off they took dash out checked every door lock, traced all wires down could not find a short anywhere. He said it was pointing to a body control module that works door locks? If that was what it was it would have to be programmed at Toyota dealer. I took it to a dealer they ran a diagnostic test and said it needed a door control module. Cost to fix $1,294.65, I said #$@#%! I was shocked I said I would get back with you. Well, I called back next day he would not give me part #number I think what we unplugged was the transponder key computer. Thanks

Also, I would have got back with you quicker but our internet has been out for 2 days. We got over 8 inches of snow.

Okay. With that information this is possibly a body controller because the door switches are a direct input to the body computer. Then the body computer tell the cluster to turn the light on.

So what we need to do is go to the body computer and test the inputs from the sensors to see if they are getting voltage. These are simple open closed switches. So if there is voltage on the circuit at the body computer then the switch is closed telling the BCM that the door is open. This is not a typical voltage test because the switch closes to provide ground so if you test this by putting one lead on the wire and the other on the ground then you will get voltage and think the switch is the issue. So you need to use a test light or a voltmeter and put one lead on battery positive and the other on the wire because you want to see if the switch is providing ground when the door is closed.

Here is a guide that will help:

https://youtu.be/Hlna_kUt7As

This is not the easiest testing so let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Okay, I just got home been to doctor visit. Toyota finally told me the part they said was bad Door Block Assembly part number 8273008071.

Ha, I looked that part up on toyotapartsdeal. Com, they call it a block assembly instrument panel junction. The pic. Looks like a fuse panel, down in their footnotes it says it is sometimes referred to a Toyota fuse box, Toyota relay block. I wonder if this has got a burnt place in it like I have seen in fuse panels.

Interesting that you found that as well. I looked it up and it was a fuse block. Did they give you a reason for this being the cause? These almost never fail as they just house the fuses and pass the voltage through the fuses and from one wire to the other.

No not specifically, I told them the problem I was having, door ajar stays on runs battery down, they said they ran a diagnostic test, this was the part that was bad, it was showing left front door staying open, doesn't make sense, I am going to get my son take this out and look it over, may have a burnt wire that's shorting out, does this also have relays in it. Does it have one for electric door locks, I will let you know what he finds may take several days. Thanks a lot.

So the way to test this would be to test the voltage on the circuit below by putting your meter or test light on battery positive and then the other end on the terminal at the BCM. There should be voltage there only when the door is open as that is when the circuit is grounded.

The junction blocks are circled and if when the door is open there is no voltage then you have an open circuit somewhere. It could be one of these junction blocks but we need to test voltage going in and out and I bet they did not test it correctly as these are just pass through parts and are not common to fail. Even if they are, I would just bypass it with new wiring and not replace the entire component as it is not needed.

Let me know if you have questions on this.

Okay. Great advice I will show this to my son. I will get back with you when they can go over this. Thanks

Sounds great. Thanks for the update. Let us know if you or he has questions. Thanks

Okay, where specifically is this fuse panel at and how to get to it?

Okay, I think they found it. Is it fuse panel in left side lower dash? Does this panel have 2 rows of fuses? And how many wires go in and out of junction blocks? Thanks. I bet I could fix this if I could get down in the floor.

I am not sure I know which fuse panel you are talking about. I was talking about the two junction boxes or panels that are circled. They are like inline connectors and don't have fuses. If it were me, I would just take a wire and cut this wire at both ends and run a new wire from the BCM to the door switch. Even if you just run it straight to it just to test it. If the light goes out then you can route the wire properly. Does that make sense?

Sorry for the confusion. I meant the door block assembly so if I did that would I not still have my short that red door light alone would not run my battery drained in less than 48 hours.

If your short is somewhere on the yellow highlighted line in the last attachment then you would be eliminating it because you are cutting that wire at both ends and then running a new one. Maybe we are talking about two different things. Sorry.

Both front doors will not lock with the switches or the remote. Also clock is not keeping the right time.

Hello,

We first should look at the fuses that run the system which are ECU ACC, ECU IG, Gauge 2, ECU B, and Door 2. Here is a guide to help walk us through the test and the fuse locations ans well as the door lock wiring diagrams so you can see how it works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken