Dome and Door Courtesy lights not coming on with front passenger door (2007 Sedan)

Tiny
WTFMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HONDA ACCORD
  • 70,000 MILES
Hello,

Opening my front passenger door doesn't trigger the door light or the overhead dome light to come on as they do with every other door.

The door panel light was working this morning, but flickered out, and I replaced it with a new bulb (didn't work) and then tried another bulb (didn't work). Later I turned on the dome light to the "door" setting, and saw it wasn't coming on with that particular door open either.

The dome light obviously works, because the other three doors trigger it - but it seems like whatever makes the side door panel light and the overhead light are connected so that one won't come on if the other isn't functioning - is that correct?

Is there a way to test if it is the passenger door jamb switch, or (more likely) just a loose wire behind the bulb socket I'd been messing with?

Any tips would be appreciated.

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Monday, October 21st, 2013 AT 4:21 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Chances are the switch is bad. Remove the switch and check to see if there is power to it. Then, if there is power, check to see if the power gets through the switch.

Let me know what you find.
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Monday, October 21st, 2013 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
WTFMAN
  • MEMBER
I removed the switch and replaced it with one I knew was functioning, but it turns out that switch must be good. . It works in the door I swapped it to, but the problem door still doesn't work, with either switch.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2013 AT 8:51 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Check to see if there is power to the switch. Let me know what you find.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2013 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
WTFMAN
  • MEMBER
Nope; I checked it against the other doors - I register a little under 12v at the other jamb switches and bulb sockets - but neither the jamb or the door light has power on the problem door.
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Saturday, October 26th, 2013 AT 10:15 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Then there is a break before the switch. Are you able to trace the wiring from the switch?
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Saturday, October 26th, 2013 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
WTFMAN
  • MEMBER
Possibly. The wire runs inside the (B?) Pillar - the one directly between the doors, and then downward toward the frame. I'm not sure where it goes from there.

I own a multimeter; will I need another tool to trace this wire?

Would it make sense to check another position or two in the car? .I am told that other than loose connections or breaks, there is a Multiplex ICU in the fuse box which can be the problem.
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Tuesday, October 29th, 2013 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I don't think that would affect only one door. As far as the tester, what you have should work. Trace the wires to see where power is lost.
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Tuesday, October 29th, 2013 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
WTFMAN
  • MEMBER
Thanks for all your help. I am not positive that I am performing the trace correctly, but had a tough time searching for the technique. Could you describe (or send me a link re:) using this multimeter to trace a wire within the car?

I am using a GE 2524 Digital

This single wire coming from the door jamb quickly joins a heavy bundle that goes down into the side sill, and then branches into three complex-looking arteries that head left toward the driver door. It appears highly protected.

I tried to test for Ohms at that switch and at the light socket - I was able to get results from the functioning doors, but from the problem door neither from the socket or the switch did I register Ohms.

According to the wiring diagram, there are only three wires involved in that door's lighting:
> A single green/red from the problem door's jamb switch to the Multiplex ICU, grounded with the switch.
> A hot white/blue wire from the fuse to the light socket, and then a yellow/green wire from the socket to the MICU

Kindof like this:
[fuse]--white/blue--(bulb)---yellow/green---[MICU]---green/red--[switch+ground]

If the lights are all connected directly to the fuse, should that light socket have power even if the door switch doesn't? Would grounding the white/blue wire cause the light to come on, if that were the case?

I am wondering if power to the door switch might actually be dependent on the light socket's connection.
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2013 AT 6:49 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
What you are saying is correct. If power goes directly from the fuse to the socket, you should be able to turn the light on by grounding the neg wire. However, it sounds like there is no power. The only thing you can do is search as to where the wire loses power.

As far as your meter, I'm not familiar with this model. However, you should be able to check for DC voltage. Is that correct?
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2013 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
WTFMAN
  • MEMBER
Ok. Yes, the meter is one of those $10 yellow models from Walmart, but it does detect DC current.
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2013 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Funny, I have the same one. Lol It will do the job. You are seeking 12v of DC power in the power supply. Somewhere it is lost. You need to find where.

I realize this is a pain in the neck job. Just hang in there.
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2013 AT 4:51 PM

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