Timing marks?

Yes, that is exactly how I lined up the timing marks (Hayes showed it this way too). For the life of me I cannot figure out why it doesn't have spark. Do you think the computer went dead?

I changed my timing belt
with pulleys waterpump and camshaft sealings.
That is a difficult job to do because of the steering bracket that
does not allow acces to rear camshaft pulley.
.
I did the all job with battery connected as I was obliged to remove crankshat pulley
by cranking the starter motor without the inlet manifold and its sensors (MAP and IAT).

Check several times the timing was OK by reving several time
the engine by hand, and then started it.

It started several times with pain with an ugly noise and stall.
And now it does not start anymore and there is no more sparking at plugs.
Check engine light was on each time the engine started and was off for the next attempt.

Steering belt not yet installed.

My timing is OK, and I wonder what did I bad!

Cannot read codes as my engine does not start anymore.

Ordered a crankshaft sensor at rockauto.

If my dodge stratus water pump is leaking, do I have to replace the timing belt and pulleys

'99 Dodge Stratus, 2.5 V6. About 9 months ago, car quit running. SIL (son-in-law) decided he would fix it. Don't know what all he did, but he couldn't get it to run. Instead of bringing it to me (I used to own the car and did all the maintenance on it for 8 years), he took it to his father. FIL (daughter's father-in-law) replaced the crankshaft position sensor, distributor, rotor, cap, timing belt. Still wouldn't run. After 8 months, SIL & FIL asked me to try.
Engine would crank but not run. Checked timing marks - with crankshaft timing mark pointed at TDC, 1/3/5 cam timing mark off by 3 teeth BTDC and 2/4/6 cam timing mark off by 2 teeth ATDC. No fire to the plugs. I re-replaced distributor (it was under parts warranty). Still no fire to the plugs. Replaced computer. Now engine would fire. Checked each plug - all terribly oil/carbon fouled. Replaced all plugs and wires (1/3/5 plug wires were crushed under intake plenum). Compression is 180 PSI each cylinder. I find no vacuum leak. Engine will run (and I use that 3-letter word very loosely), but accelerator pedal does nothing to increase engine speed and engine pops and wheezes constantly. I pulled the fuel line apart where it goes to the injector rack - it is getting fuel (gas will run out of the rack). I even tried starting fluid and propane in the intake but that didn't make any difference. Engine runs as if distributor was 180 degrees out of time - but crank and both cams point to TDC and rotor points to #1 distributor cap contact.
Is it possible to have the crank & cam timing marks dead-on, but still be out 180 degrees? Any other suggestions? What am I missing?

Please explain how the EGR system would cause these problems (just so I'll understand). There are no codes and I have a code reader that would tell me what to look for. I'm out of ideas and am totally stumped. Even some of us old-schoolers run out of ideas. If this was a mid-60s SBC, it would be running like a clock right now (I just happen to have one - a '59 283 with a 700R4 behind it - on the frame rails of my '36 Hudson Terraplane 2-Door Sedan.

Turned out to be a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor. Re-replaced it this past Monday and the car runs (almost) like new.

What is the proper procedure to realign camshaft and crankshaft timing belt positions with the car listed above with missing the timing belt?

Thank you, CARADIODOC, for your help and quick response.

When replacing an existing timing belt one can turn the engine to top dead center (TDC) and align the timing marks, before removing the old belt, but in my circumstance the belt is missing and the cams and crankshaft are not on TDC.

It looks like the belt and adjuster were removed which allowed the right camshaft(closest to the firewall), to have turned( from valve spring tensions), and caused the belt to jump approximately seven teeth, rotating towards the firewall. The left cam and crankshaft remained in position, but not at TDC.

The crankshaft timing mark is pointed at five o'clock and the left camshaft pulley is pointed at three o'clock position, when viewing from the passenger side of engine towards the driver side.

I need the priority sequence and proper procedure to turn the individual shafts to reach the TDC alignment of timing marks, without any interference damage from valve to piston contact.

Can you give me the URL link to the manufacturers web page that has the procedure list of instructions.

I have a 98 Dodge Stratus (150k miles) and the timing belt broke yesterday while driving. As a result, some valves are bent and need to be replaced. Which is a big job. The kbb value of the car is a little under $4k. The repairs, including labor and parts, would cost me between $2k and $2.5k. If I were to sell this car in current condition to a person who repairs cars for a living so they could fix it and flip it for profit on their own time, what is a reasonable price for me to ask?