1995 Dodge Stratus engine does not run, cranks OK

Tiny
RACENUT60
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE STRATUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 15,600 MILES
A quick check by pulling a spark plug that there is no spark. The manual that I have states that there is a resistor built intothe cap, ohm reading should be 5,000. Mine is 6,100. Would this be enough to cause the problem? A new cap is not readily to check resistance. Any other things to check that may cause the problem?
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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 1:51 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Hello, can you check for codes? Cycle the ignition switch three times, on--off, on-- off, on. You turn the key till the dash lites come on, no further. The mil starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes.

Are you missing anything besides spark, how about injector pulse?
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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
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After further checks, I do not have 12 volt power going into the distributor. I am assuming by the diagram I have that you need 12 volts on the dark green wire on th e2 pin connector for the distrbutor.
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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Hi, did you check for codes? Can you check for B+ at the injectors with the engine cranking?

The ASD relay supplies voltage to several systems. If the computer does, t see the proper cam and crank signals, with the engine cranking, it may not ground the relay. It could be a problem on the load or control side of the relay, or the relay itself. If the problem leads you to the relay, check the voltage and ground circuits for the relay, before replacing anything.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
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I did check for codes, car gave me an 11, 12, 32, 55. Pulled the ASD to check for continuity, shows three out of the four connections to have a circuit to the dark green wire that feeds the distributor, that does not seem qiute right to me. Will check for voltage at the injectors. Thanks
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_iso_relay_1.jpg



That is just a standard relay, 85 and 86 is for the control side of relay, coil symbol, B+ and ground, as far as testing the coil side of relay, with relay unplugged, as long as there isn't a diode in the relay, it doesn't matter which one is ground or voltage, for testing purposes.

Terminal 30 and 87 is for the load side of relay. When the relay is energized, there should be continuity between those terminals, otherwise, no. I have used a 9 volt battery and test wires to check relay. You use the battery on the coil side of relay, then check for continuity between the load terminals.

Code 11 maybe the rpm signal, code12 the pcm has lost battery voltage at some time, code32 egr issue, code 55 end of message. Right now it seems like a sensor problem. The computer has to ground the coil side of relay, or nothing the relay supplies gets voltage.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
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I have now reassembled the entire electrical system. I do have 12 volts going to the distibutor, lights up injector while cranking, still no spark.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
You didn't hot wire the voltage, did you? That won't work if the computer isn't grounding the circuits. For injector and coil control, the computer grounds the circuits. I've already mentioned the cam and crank sensors, check the circuits.

On the injector and coil control circuits is there a pulse?
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Sunday, February 22nd, 2009 AT 11:15 AM
Tiny
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No, I did not hotwire the voltage. Everyhting is connected normally. Cam sensor is built into the distibutor, crank sensor needs an oscilliscope to check. Coil is also built into the distributor, that checks checks OK within limits specified in the manual that I have. Was told that the coil was bad and had the distibutor replaced 3 years ago before my son purchased the car. Thanks again.
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Sunday, February 22nd, 2009 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Check for an injector pulse. If that is a two wire connector, take it loose. Use an led test lite between the terminals, have a helper crank the engine, see if the lite pulses? If it does, the computer is grounding the circuit.

If the cam and crank sensors are hall switches, three wires, ref voltage--ground--signal. You don't have to have a scope to check those circuits.
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Sunday, February 22nd, 2009 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
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I have checked the injector with a tester using the two connectors for the injector and it does pulse. Will try to find the wires that feed the crank and cam sensors to try and check them.
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Sunday, February 22nd, 2009 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Check for a pulse at the coil driver circuit at the distributor, black wire with gray tracer. I don't believe a testlite will work. If you have a dmm that has a tach--dwell--duty cycle, any of these settings will react to a pulse, you would backprobe the wire.
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Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
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Now that I am back from work, I have installed a new distibutor. Car runs now but not very smooth, will check all the spark plugs and wires to see if there is a bad one. Thanks for the tips.
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Friday, February 27th, 2009 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
RACENUT60
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Found a bad plug wire, now runs fine. Thanks again helper jdl123. Let me know if you have any expirence with an intermittant tach operation. Only seems to work after an hour or two of driving.
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Friday, February 27th, 2009 AT 9:21 PM

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