Limp mode

Yes, but only a slight chance.
If you have a voltmeter and you are in limp-in mode what code is the TCM showing?
The wire that has no power is the control circuit side of the relay so jumping 12 volts could only click the relay. You should check the red wire from the transmission shut down relay(same clicking) by jumping 12 volts to it. But don't fry it, I can help you but need a little information. How is fluid level and condition? What does TCM scan show? Good job. Wrong wire, common mistake but it was good you jumped it, ok. Jump the Black/rd which is signal ground to ground. Then check red.

Thank you I will try that. Fluid condition is clean and full. The tcm shows code 15 eatx always off and a battery low voltage code.

Code 15 all the time, and you are working with a 3.3L, 3.8L, even 3.5L, from TCM.
I have looked at a schematic and I am pretty sure that the relay is giving the TCM power in the red wire and the red/wht tracer is relay power. The green is the pull im winding, to give it these two. The relay has wire from tcm for green. I am glad to hear about the fluid. The only way you will have power is if the PCM for the engine says go. You can jump red to red/white. Clear codes and see if it comes back, if it does this will cause limp-in.

Your welcome, of course.
From service manual, 1. Relay failure
2. Open, or short in control relay wires from relay to TCM.
3. Open in relay power feed red/wht.
4. 40 way TCM connector(or 50 way by 95 or above) sometimes.
5. Bad TCM.
This is IF RESET AFTER ENGINE CRANKING.
Relay, wiring, tcm ok 3 possibles.

Ok this was wierd I checked voltage on rd/wt wire by tcm and got 12.08 v. Checked it by relay 11.89v. The plain red wire has no power no clicks from relay when I put power to it. But when I jumped 12v from battery to green wire the power on my rd/wt wire dropped to 00.04 v. I think that would be a short somewhere there im not too good at electrical but im trying.

You are very precise and persistant, I am so sure that you will get the wiring fixed.
Please try plugging in the transmission connector, make sore it is tight with your 5/16ths or 8mm. KEEP IT HOOKED UP. Remove this relay. The one that clicks. Four blades on relay, and four female connections on fuse box, ok. Jump with a wire that is stripped 1/4 inch on each end. RED/WHITE to red only. If the red/white connects to red, you have just powered the solenoid pack and the tcm. Now you can roadtest if the red/white has power at that terminal connection. As you have said.
So the light green wire and black wire are the pull in circuit wires. Forget them for now. And if you connect the first two you now will find out if there is a problem with the TCM. For now, just let the green and black alone. Then see if you can disconnect negative battery, wait, reconnect and roadtest with the red wires at the relay slots jumped. Let me know, codes after that roadtest.
Or you can just jump 12 volts to the red wire anywhere before the tcm, the red one you said has no voltage, is the way to power up the transmission. This transmission control module turns on using the red wire, Make sure there is fluid in it. Before driving, ok

Ok I tried that drove to work hooked up the scanner and now I have code 14 eatx relay output always on set. If im thinking on the right track that would mean that red wire is good now its time to find a tcm

You may be right except one other thing.
It may not have been in limp-in, but has a broken overdrive hub, Maybe. It happened from 89 to 93 often, and sometimes with a real high mileage. At this point you have bypassed the electrical limp-in mode. This is the way its done with no TCM scan but a PCM scan only. Two seperate sets of codes. Some are common to both(like relay) some are not. If no overdrive hub, no underdrive either, and it won;t smell bad. 3rd is referred to as underdrive. In OD selection.
Since you have not gotten any 4th gear, in any selection, it is limp-in. And your correct. Needs TCM to go any further.
If you have lost overdrive hub or its valve inside, you can get 3rd(in D or L. But not 4th in OD. It doesn't happen often but can occur with no burnt smell. You can drive it like this for a limited time.
I have had limp-ins like this sometimes, thats the only thing left. OK sir.
After you have jumped green and red you have bypass limp-in.

Hello again, so I put another computer in and this is what I get now same code 15. And I checked arround the power distribution box and this is what I am getting now, when I have the positive battery cable on and the negative off I have power on the red wire, red/white, green, and black. If im thinking right the black should not have power. And the whole box shouldnt have power with the negative cable off. When I put the negative back on the power goes away from all but the red/white wire. What in the world do you think is going on now. If I am on the right track I think it would be a problem with the ground wire either the one from the battery or the one going to my relay.

Hi. I was thinking about your Intrepid. Did you ever try roadtesting the car with everything connected, but using only the gears I spoke of?
Your findings are at first strange, but a Dodge is a Chrysler. And sometimes the strangest things occur. I referred to this as 'Moparland'. I am certain that you tried putting a computer in, and connecting everything up, with the neg. Battery terminal lastly. Roadtested, using D2, or D and not OD? And you have a code 15. I have read your post, and I'll need a little time, you should at this point have a test light(6-12volt) and a good fuse in every panel inside and in the engine compartment. I am sure that the part you bought was for your year and the part number was the same or a superceded number sold to you by a Mopar dealer. And the engine size was given to them. Am I correct?
What size is your engine? What code, 15? Or 14? It was a code 14 in November, was it not? There is a big difference and also who, and what tool are you using to scan just the TCM, and PCM for each seperate codes? I like this. Don't ask why, but I think the information is necessary. OK b

I got the part from a junk yard car. Same part number but that car had a 3.5 my car has the 3.3. The guy at the yard said that wouldnt matter the have the same transmission. I am using a snapon modis to check my codes. Code 15 always unless I jump my red wire then I get a code 14. There are no codes stored on pcm. I was also playing a bit and found that when I jump all wires to the relay unpluged from the box I loose my ignition power. But when the relay is pluged in it does have ignition power. I also wanted to say thank you for all the help you have ben giving me I dont know what id do without.

Its nice of you to thank me. Its been on my mind, like many, I hope you can find out the reason. Are you using achematic that is matching all your colors? You can always ask me anytime. Don't give up. You are a good man.

I am using a scematic that matches all the wires. And again I am noticing a new thing. When I come to a light arround 15mph it shifts down to 1st. Im not sure if it sarts in 1st or 2nd I cant feel it but the odo pauses arround 1500 rpm then goes up. If it is shifting from 1-2 im thinking 2-3 solenoid is bad and its causing it to go into limp

Have you ever driven it in D, noy OD, it could be a broken part, I got burned on quite a few, thinking the trans was in limp-in only to find no OD internally. Breaks. OD piston. If you have 1st. Not limp-in.?

Well after all these frusterating months of research and what have you my transmission finaly shifts tthrough all gears. I bet you would like to know what caused the problem so here it goes. I came upon a site one day and someone mentioned to use a test light not a volt meter to check circuits. I did so and my ignition circuit did not light. It then mentioned if that ignition circuit did not light to check splice number 116 located in that mess of wires under the tcm behind the washer bottle. A famous splice on these cars to cause this problem. There are 5 wires that come together in the circuit. Well I puled the shrink wrap off the splice and sure enough all the wires were rotting away with corosion. So after a few minutes or striping these wires down and resodering im cruising down the road with all my gears. I cant believe it would have been as easy as this. A car a bought for $400 cause someone didnt know what to do is now just about good a new. I thsnk you again for all your hard work to help me out with my problem.

Thank-you for letting me know how much determination will get you going again, I am very glad. Later, joe

Can I ask you a question BMOONEY What color were those wires in that splice you cleaned up?