1986 Dodge Daytona 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 100000 miles
my alternator is new as well as my battery, and it seems to be charging just fine as long as there's not a load on. Such as I can only one thing at a time: headlights really kill the amps put out it tends to sit right where the indicator turns red. Where should I start to look for the problem? I tried running a straight wire (with a 70 amp fuse on it) straight from the alternator feed to the positive terminal, but it didn't help. My turn signals and wipers are still slower than they should be, and the lights aren't as bright as they should be, oh yeah and I also tried running a whole different ground from the alt. As well but to no avail.
What kind of charging system does it have? Bosch or chrysler and is it turbo?
March, 15, 2008 AT 5:00 PM
Yes it is a turbo, and I believe it is a bosch
March, 15, 2008 AT 5:08 PM
March, 15, 2008 AT 7:03 PM
What is the diff between Bosch and Chrysler alternators? I'm not sure which it is that I have. What would be your first diagnosis from what I have told you?
March, 15, 2008 AT 7:07 PM
The exact model of my car is a stock 1986 Mark Cross Edition Dodge Daytona Carrols/Shelby Turbo Z 2.2L fuel injected 5spd Man.
March, 15, 2008 AT 8:04 PM
I have never seen this much stuff in a charging system before. Check to see if your alternator has all these color wires so we dont go off on a wild goose chase.
March, 16, 2008 AT 1:59 AM
Yes it has two green wires coming coming off the field terminals and one thick black one plus a ground connects to the casing and one open terminal that insnt connected to anything. By the way the whole assembly is one plug. If you need pics I will upload them.
March, 27, 2008 AT 4:25 PM
I have checked all the wiring running from the alternator to their respective sources, and all the wiring is conducting, so i have come to the conclusion that it is one of the two computers the vehicle is utilizing for the feild charge one is the Logic module and the other is the Power Module. My question now is, which one would be more likely to fail? They are both roughly the same price, in the neighborhood of 100-130 dollars, but I don't want to have to replace them both if I don't have to...
I'm thinking it's the Power Module, seeing how the air induction runs through it, but I'm not sure. Any suggestions?
included is a photo of the Power Module I already removed
March, 27, 2008 AT 5:01 PM
That would be my educated guess too, considering if air is going through then so is moisture. I have never seen this system before.
March, 27, 2008 AT 6:02 PM
That was my assesment as well. There is probably a reason they don't use this system anymore. However, I checked the recall lists for this year make and model, but there was no recalls on this particular problem. It seems pretty stupid to have the air intake going through a main CPU, if you ask me, it would have been easier, (and smarter) to just have the sensor for the air intake in a separate unit.
Could you find out the OEM part number for my power module? The VIN is: 1B3BA64E1GG142424
Somebody peeled the sticker off that had the number on it, and I'm going to need it to order the correct part --thanx
I will donate some money when I get a few extra bucks! Thank you for your help, I appreciate it! : D