2000 Dodge Dakota A/C blows cold when first started. Afte

Tiny
RYAN1225
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Problem first started last fall about 45 min after the truck had been driven. It blew cold then just eventually faded away. The first few weeks of spring this year, when outside temperatures rose above 80 degrees, it happens only after about 5 to 10 min of driving. Sometimes it starts to blow cold again and them almost immediately back to just blowing air.

This is my second posting on this website about the same issue. The first time "docfixit" recommended that I change the clutch cycling switch. Unfortunately that did not work. Compressor maybe? Don't have a clue. PLEASE HELP!
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2010 AT 8:07 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,922 POSTS
Before replacing anything, is the clutch cycling like it should?
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Sunday, May 9th, 2010 AT 4:58 PM
Tiny
RYAN1225
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Funny you ask that. I rented some manifold gauges this weekend to test the system. I tested it after I drove home from work so it was at normal operating temp. Of coarse it was working just fine during initial testing, as this is an intermittent problem. I drove it around the block and came back and hooked the gauges up again. When I hook up the gauges, my service manual says to pull the low pressure clutch cycling switch connector and install a jumper wire between the two connectors. I had done that before when everything was working well. This time however, the clutch would not engage and that's when it wasn't blowing cold inside the truck. I checked to see if I had a good connection and I did. I got my multimeter and checked the connector and had battery voltage on one side and ground on the other.

So, now I'm pretty convinced that either I have a bad compressor or clutch. My question to you is how do I tell if it is the compressor or the clutch and can I just replace the clutch by itself, or do I need the whole set-up?
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Sunday, May 9th, 2010 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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If the clutch isn't engaging and it is getting power, that is where the problem is coming from. Remember, that is the only electrical part. The compressor is mechanical and is driven by the clutch.

I think you found the problem.

Let me know if that fixes it. Also, just for the heck of it (before replacing the clutch) check the wiring for continunity. Make sure it you move them around there is no break down.

Joe
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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 7:13 AM
Tiny
RYAN1225
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I tested again today, and could not get it to act up. It's almost like it only does it when it is very hot outside and been driven for a while. Do you thing that the clutch would have an intermittent failure like that? Also is it the actual clutch or the clutch coil?
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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Yes, it could. And I think it is the clutch.
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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
RYAN1225
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  • 9 POSTS
I replaced the clutch and the coil and so far it seems to have fixed the problem! I got a new bearing with the kit I bought, but was unable to get the old one out. I don't have access to a shop press. It wasn't seized up or anything so hopefully I will be ok with that. Although, now every time the clutch engages I hear a little chirp. Any idea what that could be? You think I might have over-tightened the nut on the front of the compressor?
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 11:11 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Great! I'm glad to hear you got it working. As far as the churp, I would think it may be the belt is loose. Did the tensionier seem to have good tension? As far as the nut on the front, even if you over-tightened it, it wouldn't cause this. Check to make sure the belt is good and tight and in good condition.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
RYAN1225
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It's got good tension, but the belt could defiantly be replaced. If I'm not mistaken it's the original. 150000 + miles on it! I'll replace it.

I have also noticed that I have a small coolant leak, from where I have no idea. I have pressure tested it several times and I see no drop in pressure on the gauge. I have to top of the fluid probably every other month or maybe even longer. While driving I can sometimes smell it but only with all the windows down. Should I pressure test it while hot and running, or get the dye to put in the system?
Any other suggestions?
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 1:47 PM

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