I just took em off, re-greased everything to the nines, seated the wheel gasket the best I could and let the adjuster nut do the work. Newly greased the dust cap made sure there was 0 end play and went about my business. Seems to be fine.
! - Use a piece of wood, small enough to fit through the street side of the old hub and tap out the old wheel gasket and/or bearing. - !
To anyone else who trys it, grease the bearings obviously, the shaft, under the new wheel gasket, and be sure to grease in any gap that can fit more grease.
Obviousnessess. Lol. No dirt in grease! Have friend help! Make note of what came from where and the order of it. You should take the tire off, then the brake caliper, set it on a box or something dont let it dangle, remove axle dust cap carefully it's softer metal, undo and remove cotter pin reuse this, then remove tooth nut cap, then take off adjuster nut, then pull off the entire rotor hub, in the front is a small bearing and washer which will likely fall out, on the other side is the wheel gasket and bearings, knock out gasket and bearing using wood and mallet, grease new rotor hub raceways then bearings new or old, put in larger newley packed and greased bearing and then just levelly seat new wheel gasket so it is firm it's soft metal and will bend if you try to force it, the adjuster nut will do the pushing in for you, now puch whole unit onto axle and push firmly in place and hold there, have friend hold it and put in front bearing and washer then nut, tighten as you turn till there is zero play, then replace tooth nut cover and cotter pin, rebend, grease and place dust cap back on, use wood and mallet to gently tap in place, replace brakes be sure to use screw absed vise clamp to push piston into caliper, now tighten caliper back in place, put tire on, hand tighten lugs, drop the car and tighten to 120lbs torque and be on your way.
Roughly. Dont blame me if you do it wrong, if thats your concern chiltons and just answer. Com are 15 bucks.
Wednesday, September 3rd, 2008 AT 9:11 PM