1988 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual
Replaced all the steel brake lines from the master cylinder back. Now I can't get the brakes to bleed. I can get fluid at the wheels when I open the bleeders. The problem is that the pedal only goes down about a quarter of the way after I bleed the rear wheels, then I don't have any brakes. This vehicle is equipped with a proportional valve and a height sensing valve. I have never seen a problem like this before. Has anyone ever run into this before?
"... The pedal only goes down about a quarter of the way after I bleed the rear wheels, then I don't have any brakes".
Do you mean the pedal won't go down further? That sounds like a good solid pedal to me, so the brakes must be working.
It sounds like you are more than just a do-it-yourselfer, but to be safe, let me say, do not ever push the pedal down more than half way while bleeding the brakes on any vehicle more than a few years old. A bunch of crusty stuff builds up in the bottom of the two bores in the master cylinder where the seals normally don't run. By pushing the pedal to the floor, like a lot of people tell you to do, you run the seals over that crud and rip them. I realize this doesn't match your description, but it bears mentioning. I tell my students to pretend there's a 4 x 4 block of wood under the pedal.
You said you can't get the brakes to bleed, but you have fluid there, so I'm confused what the actual problem is. Did you get it figured out yet?
April, 13, 2009 AT 7:29 AM
I finally got the brakes to bleed. It was caused by the left rear wheel cylinder. For some reason the air just would not come out. The bleeders were free of dirt and everything. I took the cover off the master cylinder and opened the rear bleeder screws and walked away for about an hour. Came back closed bleeders and refilled the master cylinder and the brakes were right there. Rebled the brakes and everything ok so far.