Mystery problem too difficult for even the pros!

Tiny
JOHNLIVO@AOL.COM
  • MEMBER
  • DODGE CARAVAN
2000 Dodge Caravan 3.0 123,000 miles. Runs fine often at start up and for 15 minutes or longer, then starts to run very rough, and engine dies. Eventually, if you keep driving it the Check Engine light will come on, and car may no longer move. But then if you turn it off and wait a number of hours, it will start up and may drive well again for a period of time. But there is no way that I can let my wife and kids use the van, and it is dangerous for me to drive or attempt to drive as well.

Much has been done to attempt to fix it through the reliable garage that always works on my car, but even they have no idea what to do anymore. When the computer is checked, the fault codes that consistently come up are cam and crank shaft sensors. But both have been check and replaced. Also a used computer has been put in, and a new thermostat.

There only idea now is that there is some issue somewhere in the wiriing harness.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and thought given to my problem!

John
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Friday, October 5th, 2007 AT 2:07 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
FAIRRACING31
  • MEMBER
John, I know this may sound crazy but have you had your fuel pump checked? I ran into the same problem where I was getting a crank sensor code. Fuel pressure was within specs. But out of desperation I replaced the fuel pump and I still cant explain it but it fixed the problem. The reason I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump was because it seemed to do it worst with 1/4 or less in the fuel tank. I'm not saying go out and replace your fuel pump, but you might look into it. Crazy huh?
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Friday, October 5th, 2007 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Sounds like it is time for a pin-to-pin check of the wiring harness
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Saturday, October 6th, 2007 AT 8:30 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Gonna be a little tough reading 300= blinks don't cha think?
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Monday, October 8th, 2007 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
FAIRRACING31
  • MEMBER
I have never had any luck with the break out box, but in some situations you just dont have any other options. It is very time consuming. Hopefully you can find something, if you dont, at least you have ruled out another posibililty and can move forward.
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Monday, October 8th, 2007 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
HUNTER021664
  • MEMBER
I suggest going to the garage and having them check the wires going into and out of the alternator. Make sure that all of them are properly attached, and in good condition--no worn, cracked or missing insulation, etc. I had a similar problem on a Ford Focus I used to own--it would start and run just fine for the first half hour or so, and then it would start to spit and sputter and stall, and finally die altogether. After it cooled off, it would run fine again. It was throwing all sorts of false codes in the computer, and was almost impossible to track down. Turns out there was a ground wire with all but just a few strands of copper broken. When the heat in the engine compartment got high enough, the resistance level in the wires got high enough that it would no longer conduct electricity, and the circuit opend, resulting in the stalls and cut-outs. After the engine cooled, the resistance dropped, the few strands of wire still connected would complete the circuit, and the engine ran great---until the next time it warmed up again. Have the mechanic tug and bend the wires close to the alternator, and see if any of them are questionable. It may not be the answer to your problem, but its a place to look, anyway. Good Luck!
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Sunday, October 28th, 2007 AT 12:33 AM

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