2001 Dodge Caravan Auto tailgate not functioning

Tiny
TBDODGECARA
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 DODGE CARAVAN
Electrical problem
2001 Dodge Caravan

When the tailgate is down and the remote button is pressed the tailgate unlocks and the motor twitches. When the tailgate is up and the button is pressed nothing happens. I removed the motor/gear housing and tested just the motor and it works fine. None of the gears are stripped. What should I check next?
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Saturday, November 14th, 2009 AT 11:18 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
You have tested the motor by its resistance in windings? Or you have jumped 12v to it? I would test for power available during liftgate closing, right at connection to motor. 10 way on release motor. Fused eng. Comp. 32-40 amp. Ok
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Saturday, November 14th, 2009 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
TBDODGECARA
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I connected just the motor to 12v and it turned freely. I am not sure how to test the HALL Effects sensor. I would assume that it only gets power for about a second after the tailgate unlatches from the closed position. It turns one way for about a half second then turns the other way for about half a second. When the button is pressed to close the tailgate nothing happens.

"10 way on release motor. Fused eng. Comp. 32-40 amp. Ok"

I am not sure what you mean. Do you mean a 10 pin connector?
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
CH112063
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Yes, I am referring to a 10 pin connector. I always forget what it is called. I always say 8 way or 10 way meaning connector. This is very good that our information matches. Unlatch, and lift/release are seperate motor circuits.
And yes to the fuse number 32 in left side power panel(interior fuse box).
The whole motor has all 10 connections that are for 5 seperate items. Two motors, two switches, one hall effect. This is all called the motor assembly. If each part has a Chrysler part number, good. There is a module on the left pillar, which does the logic. It has stored codes to start the body diagnostics. The tan wires are one motor and two orange for larger motor with clutch. If it turns and reverses, whether it is a hall effect problem or another input or motor load problem, the logic will tell. I'm thinking the same as yo. The best and fasted way to diagnose is a scan tool for all body functions on this van, DRBIII. Or equal. It will operate and sense the inputs, both motors, plus have a way to reset the logic to a start mode, afterwards. Does it chime? See if it can be serviced seperately(motor assembly), it could be this or its controls.
One winding is for just unlatching and the other takes over. I will look at another if I can. Ok sir or maam.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 11:56 PM
Tiny
SAMMYDAD1
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Hi,

Does your power liftgate work in warmer weather but not in cold?

Many people seem to have this issue and not much luck at getting it remedied. For us, whenit gets below 60 degrees here in south Fla, the liftgate just blinks and whirrs but will not power open or close.

As soon as it warms up some, it goes back to working perfectly. The manual states there is a temperature settingof Minus 12 degrees where it won't work. Seemingly, the sensor(s) get out of calibration in some manner which prevents normal power liftgate operation in colder temps.

Sadly, you may have to live with this annoyance.
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009 AT 5:49 AM

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