1999 Dodge Caravan Dragging Breaks

Tiny
CAYBAYMGR
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,000 MILES
Problem: After driving about 10 miles (shorter in traffic with more breaking) you can feel the breaks dragging. Almost to the point that when not giving it gas it will stop almost instint.
I live in St. Maarten, it is common to get moisture build up in the brake fluide so we vaccumed it completly thru with new fluide.
Front calipers, rotors, and pads have been replaced.
Rear rotors, e-break shoes and hardware were replaced. Rear calipers are in good condition.
Locking is noticed on all four wheels.
NOTE: when the vaccume line to the booster is disabled it does not lock up.
Removing fuses to the ABS made no differance.
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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 10:49 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
First let me say thanks for the donation. As for your brake problem it sound like the HCU (hydralic control unit) is not functioning right and applying pressure to the wheels. Now have you done anything with the speed sensors or sensor wires? As all this ties in to the HCU. Do you have any abs trouble codes? Let me know what you can and we will go from there. Do you have a digital multi meter? Thanks again.
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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
CAYBAYMGR
  • MEMBER
No, TY for helping it is worth every penny to get to the bottom of this WITHOUT rebuilding th van! LOL
Did nothing with sensors, not even sure of there locations. Yes, I have a friend here with a meter who can help.
Is the HCU easy to access and replace? Can we test it? Is it a costly part?
No codes that I know of, although the Service Engine soon light just came on. But the break problem had existed long before the light activation.
No scaner to read codes either, but I am sure I could fine a local mechanic that would have one.
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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Let me answer a few of your question now. Yes you can test and yes the HCU is pricey and yes you can replace it yourself.
Now as for the wheel sensors they are the wires that go to the wheel hub bearing. This is what we will test first. Now what we need to do is check the resistance so set your multi meter to ohms and disconnect the wheel sensor connector and check resistance from either term to ground it should be 15,000 ohms or more do this at each wheel ok.
No as for the light being on call around to the parts stores and see if one of them will do a free scan for you most will and get the codes as they might pertain to the problem and give me the codes that come up ok. Here is a pic of the connector.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_16.jpg

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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 10:44 AM

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