1998 Dodge Caravan misfire

Tiny
RUSTYFORD
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE CARAVAN
Engine Performance problem
1998 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Keep getting random cylinder misfire codes. It is burning some oil. Since the bottom end was done.I beleive I need valve seals done. If these were real bad. Would it cause the misfire codes? Or should I look else where?
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Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 6:35 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
When was the last tune up?
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Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
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Tuned up 6 months ago.I do beleive I might have my answer. It also has a high pitch sqeal.I now suspect the belt tensioner. Could it be that easy?
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Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
No, a tensioner won't cause that. As far as the oil burning, when valve seals are bad, usually you will get blue smoke when you first start it and wide open. Is that what is happening?

As far as the noise, the tensionier could cause it. Remove the belt and start the car to see if the sound is gone. Only let it run a few seconds, just long enough to see if the sound is gone.

Let me know what you find.
Joe
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Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 9:52 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe:
Turned out dis. Cap was cracked. Tensioner bearing was shot. Thanks for the advice. Rusty
P.S. As to the last question, yes its blue smoke on start-up only. Thanks, again
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Monday, July 26th, 2010 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Good job! Glad you found the problem. Was the cap replaced when you tuned it up?

As far as the blue smoke at start up, my first guess is valve seals.
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 12:18 AM
Tiny
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Hey Joe: The cap was new, but cheapest. The other problem was the #4 wire to cap.I did not install all the way. It then started to short, hence the crack.I should of paid more attention to what the cpu. Was telling me in the first place, (#4 misfire) Just may attempt valve seals. The front cylinder head anyway. The rear looks like a nightmare, any advice?I'm hoping a small Porter cable pancake compressor will work, as long as theres no leakage, right?Thanks, Rusty
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 6:25 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It should work. Just work carefully and quickly. I've seen valve spring compressors (for when you do the work with the head still on) open the valve's seal, compression is lost, and the valve drops in. Also, the retainers are a little tough to deal with because of size and they like to shoot off if not properly seated, so keep your eyes on them.

As far as the back, yes they are a pain. However, when you remove the plenum, believe it of not, there is room to work. The worst part is hooking up the compressor to each cylender. Believe me when I say, I would love to meet the engineer that comes up with some of the ideas. My guess is it's the CEO's nephew that got an engineering degree online for around 50 bucks. Life could be so much easier for everyone if things were just thought through.

Let me know if you have questions or problems, and good luck.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
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Maybe I'll get lucky. The bad one(s) are at the front. Shouldn't I be OK even losing compression, as long as that cylinder is TDC? Yes, I know what you mean about engineers.I just replaced the Steering rack when I could of got away with replacing the one 1/4 line. Nobody knows where to get fittings or duplicate the fancy flat flares?Maybe I should of asked Toyota?Since thats who made it?I'm sure they would only be happy to sell me a new rack. Picked up one from wreckers for 80 bucks off a 2000.
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 6:25 AM
Tiny
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If it is only the front, you should be fine. If you run into trouble, let me know. And yes to having the pistons at TDC.
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 10:29 PM
Tiny
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Joe:The rack I picked up had o-rings on the main lines on the flares into the rack, which the wrecker cut, to put on a socket, off a 2000 caravan. My 98 never had these 0-rings. Do I need to buy a couple to put on? Or will they be fine without?I hate to reassemble & have leaks, there. Fittings are a pain to get at. These are the bigger lines from pump, Thanks.
Rusty
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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That is a good question. When you change years, everything changes. If they will go on for you, I would recommend replacing the O-rings. And I agree, there is no room.
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 12:18 AM
Tiny
RUSTYFORD
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Joe:Just wanted to update/correct. For the loyal followers. So they don't make a mistake. Those lines into the rack, from the pump did have O-rings. It was hard to tell, they were very thin/worn. For what they are worth. Its better to replace. The only thing I must of done incorrect was turning the coupler to mate with pinch bolt on the steering?Now steering wheel is 1/4 turn counter clockwise?With wheels straight?Don't get it?The roll pin only installs one way?Just as the pinch bolt?Should I have unlocked the steering wheel first?Or maybe off on the Tie rods(s) install? Rusty
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 6:48 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Actually, the steering alignment is adjusted through the tie rods. When it is aligned, make sure the have the steering wheel straight when they adjust the alignment. When you put the tie rods back on, my guess is that is what happened.
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 11:23 PM

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