1996 Dodge Caravan FRONT-DRIVER BRAKES LOCKED

Tiny
CELTICSQUIRREL
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 DODGE CARAVAN
Brakes problem
1996 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Dodge Caravan SE - 1996

Replaced the Front Pads and Rotors on our 1996 Dodge Caravan 3-weeks ago. When I test-drove the vehicle everything was fine.

My wife used the van on short errand trip around town for a week and found the brakes to be working fine. The van was not used for a few days and when I went to drive it the wheels felt like they were locked. I felt the brakes were FIRM to the touch and it was sticking both in forward and reverse. I didn't have time to figure it our that day so I used another vehicle.

I checked it a few days later and the van seemed to roll normally so I took it for a short test drive of 1-2 KM and then stopping - I could smell hot brakes outside the vehicle. The front-drivers wheel was warm/hot to the touch.

I drove home and raised the front end. With the engine running and the transmission in Drive the front-drivers wheel would not turn and the front-passengers wheel turned freely.

I raised the rear and found the rear-passenger wheel was also LOCKED and the rear-drivers wheel turned freely.

I can't figure out why the BRAKING CIRCUIT for the affected front-drivers wheel and rear-passenger wheel is maintaining/creating pressure, which is preventing the wheels from turning freely.

There are no “Warning Lights On” on the dash.

The situation has escalated to the point where the van can’t be driven at all. To move the van from my driveway into the garage I had to release the Bleeder Screw on the Front Caliper slightly and this allowed me to drive the van into the garage.

The front calipers are retracted normally – and the rotor turns when you bleed the caliper and locks when you close the bleeder screw.
The fluid level in the master cylinder is also at the correct level.



I have bleed the brakes with a vacuum pump according to the manual – But the manual also states that for a proper bleed the van should be taken to the dealer with a DRB scan tool. Is that true for this Make/Model?

Below is a list of what I have tried to see if it would correct the problem, but saw no change:

1. Bleed the brakes (twice) according to the repair manual with no change.
2. Replaced the Brake Hose on Front Drivers Side – Again no change, then Bleed the Front Drivers Caliper – Wheel remained locked.
3. Pulled the ABS relay out, as well as the 40AMP – ABS fuse trying to deactivated the ABS System to see if that would make any changes – No Change
4. Rechecked calipers and pistons and they are moving freely no binding no sticking.
5. Pins & sliders have been cleaned up & lubed.


Have spoken to a few mechanics this week and they have had no new ideas as to the cause of the problem.

Could the ABS be causing this problem? The front-driver and rear-passenger is the Braking Circuit that is affected.

I’m truly stumped by this problem and am at a loss as to what is going on. Any ideas as to what I am missing…
Tuesday, December 16th, 2008 AT 12:03 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
You have a diagonial split system which means master cylinder operates left front right rear from same piston. As to right front left rear together.
Problam in master cylinder the compensating port is pluged up or piston will not retracte all the way. This checks pressure in lines ie. Brakes stay applied.
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Sunday, February 21st, 2021 AT 1:17 PM

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