How to fix dent in hood

How big is the dent? If it is about the size of a half dollar then this first video is great at laying out what you need. Fiberglass is not the easiest to work with and does not level that well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guNuhRgy5A8

Here is a quick product video that gives good info as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_vNqOxwRLg

Hopefully this what you were looking for. The internet is full of videos on how to do this. I would just stick with videos that are by companies and not a guy in his driveway. They may be knowledgeable but there are a lot more hacks out there then we would want to know. The videos by companies are proper techniques, they are just pushing their product. The product that you decide to use is not as important as the technique.

Yeah, if they are not that deep then that will work. If they are deeper then a half inch you will want to try and hammer then out from underneath so that they are not as deep. Otherwise the bondo could crack. Clearly this will take some work because the metal has be stretched so you will need to shrink it back.

If you are going to do the entire hood you will likely need to blend into the front fenders as well because it's doubtful that the paint will match between the hood and fenders. If you can live with the mismatch then fine, You might want to spray a test panel first to see just how close the new paint is. If it's close enough for you, sand the entire hood to remove the clear and then fog on a couple coats of the new base with a bit heavier coverage over the new primer. The idea is to blend the color into the factory color on the hood, then clear the entire hood. As long as the new color is a very close match the slow fade between old and new should hide it.

May be get a picture of the hood and Steve and I can take a look at it. That way we will have a better idea on best steps when we see what you are dealing with.

As for those products, they are compatible. Just be sure to follow the application steps for each one. Once they are dry you should not have any issues.

The products are compatible but may not last as long as the clear you plan to use has very little UV protection. You can get a true 2 part automotive clear coat in a spray can from some online places (Eastwood EW 2K Aerosol High Gloss Clear is one). With it you get the same type of clear the factory uses and it will last much longer.

Once it's fully painted with the primer, base coat and top coat of clear I would wait at least a couple weeks before a wash and wax. You can do the rest of the car but you don't want to do the hood until it has had a chance to fully cure. Plus if your top coat is an enamel you may want to skip the rubbing compound as some enamels don't like rubbing compound.