Crankshaft position sensor?

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,741 POSTS
That's the same drawing I looked at.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEY RICHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
So that would be by the starter and not on the front of the block? I have asked everyone and I a being told it is by the timing chain. So I do not want to take stuff off that I do not need to.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEY RICHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
So what all do I need to remove to get to it?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEY RICHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Well if you have problems with the crank shaft sensor on your truck look on the driver side by your shifter cable there is one bolt out one nut take it out in there it is.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,883 POSTS
Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help people.

Best, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,741 POSTS
I think you may have interpreted the drawing incorrectly. Certainly will not be the first time. It shows the sensor in the back, right where you found it. The people you talked with, (who obviously weren't as smart, and handsome, as I am!), Were probably thinking about a different engine size.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEY RICHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
The pic was good it just do not say what side it was on and trying to find it was a lil bet of a pain and come to find out it was the plugs that are all so a pain to change bc I have to take so much off to get to them on the passenger side but thank u to everyone that helped out
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,883 POSTS
Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help and tell a friend.

Best, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDYROO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
As if I bought bad gas. The vehicle stalled intermittently then failed to restart.

Intermittently means over 2 days and 150 miles.

At first fuel additive seemed to help, then after new filter, fuel pump and crank sensor total failure.

Mechanic reports good gas, and pressure ok, acts as if wants to start

if successful I will return with payment. Promise
thanks a million
andrew
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLYMAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,204 POSTS
Hi well this sounds like the injectors are not pulseing
which could be caused by ecm or eec relay blown fp fuse
one of these is causing injectors not to fire
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIXBYSTX
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,000 MILES
I put a new DSS crate engine in my truck about a year ago and the new engine has about 6,000 miles on it. I often get the P0315 code, which is the crankshaft variation code. My truck runs fine and I would think if my crankshaft sensor was bad my truck would probably give me some problems. Would putting a new motor in my truck trigger this code when nothing is really wrong with my crankshaft sensor? I have been told that Ford do not have a relearn like the chevys do with crankshaft sensors. I would like to get my problem fixed.

Thanks,

Brian
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Either the sensor is sending the incorrect signal (wrong sensor, or wiring to it).

Or PCM is misinterputing signal.

Was engine from same year Ford?

Is it direct replacement?

Who installed it?

Hooking up a scanner to it in live data mode will tell you what signal the PCM is receiving.

During an installation this complicated is is very possible a wire as pinched, or connector pin bent.

Is this 4.6, 5.4?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIXBYSTX
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
My motor is a 4.6 modular motor that DSS racing sells. I'm sure this motor would probably work on several different years for the F150. Yes this motor is a direct replacement for my factory motor. What type of scanner would I need to scan my truck in the live data mode? My engine was installed by S&G Performance in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

Brian
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Actron, Innova, AutoXray all have scanners that will read live data.

They run anywhere from $200-$600.

If you get into the really GOOD scanners (OTC, Snap-on) you are looking at a minimum of $5000-$10,000 and up.

The less expensive scanners work fine, and unless you are a mechanic by trade, are generally overkill for most people.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOOPI321
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 269,380 MILES
First I had to replace the alternator then the battery ends, and now I had to buy a new battery, well it started twice and on the third time as soon as it started, it quit, my question is : could this be the crank shaft position censor?
I bought the truck in October last year only to find out later that it has been totaled and rebuilt. With a rebuilt title. Nice huh? Then the oil pan gasket had a leak so the seller charged me $390. To repair that,
we have had problems with the battery cables needing cleaned and disconnected and reconnected, then after all that we got it started and running and it sounded like it wasn't getting gas. So I hope this info helps you to understand the truck so you can help me. Sandra
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You'll need to scan for codes and check fuelpressure with a gauge first to see what is wrong if anything to not start. Also check fuses underhood in underhood fuse box. Autoparts rent the gauge
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOOPI321
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Checking codes with a scanner is fine, except I cant start the truck to get to the auto store. And also I had popped a coil out to see if im getting spark, and there is no spark.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
See if autoparts will rent it without scanning you don't know what is wrong. You can test to see if crank sensor is getting voltage and maybe resistance of it bu tthat won't tell you much at all. Check fuses underhood aswell and if it has a anti theft which it may reset it lookonline for that.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOOPI321
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
What would the theft device have to do with the truck starting or not. Now I talked to a mechanic and he said it is definitely the crank censor. By the way I do have power to the fusible link and the coil, but I didn't get anything at the censor, with key on and off, maybe it has to be running to get power at the censor, you think?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Depending on the model if the anti theft is activated it may not send power to the ignition system or fuel system or both. But you are sure it 's the crank sensor have at it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links