Crank no start?

Hello, this vehicle has a fuel pressure/temperature sensor on the fuel rail that can be read by a scan tool, via the live data in the PCM. If an alternate fuel source gave no results, check to see if you have ignition spark. Heres a guide to help checking for spark. The number 1 coil is very easy to get to on this truck, or any of the front coils. See if theres spark and go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

I found a cracked fuel rail where the #7 injector plugs in so first that has to be replaced. I'm assuming the system can't build pressure with this leak and the connector was getting wet with fuel.

Yes, definitely repair that first. Is it the fuel rail really cracked? It's not an upper injector seal leaking? It's rare for a fuel rail to crack, that's a strange fault. The 3-wire sensor on the fuel rail is the pressure sensor, if you want to check it, one wire should read 5volts with the Key On, engine doesn't need to be on. The other two wires, one is a ground and the other is the Signal wire 0-5volt signal. But let us know what you find after that repair. The vehicle has high mileage too so if the rail fix doesn't get it started check for spark and go from there.

Yes the rail is cracked, it's coming from above the bell where the injector plugs in. I've never seen one crack before either. Probably could braze it. Looking for a rail though.

I won't get back to it until after Thanksgiving.

Yeah, just replace it, sounds like it could fail in other sections in that case, factory defect.

Replaced the fuel rail and the clips for the injectors were a different design so installed without clips, no leaks. The pressure sensor from the new rail has 3 pins but the wiring from the truck is a 4-pin connector. The footprint is different so I can't swap in the old sensor which has the center 2 pins rusted away anyway. What are the 4 wires and can I use the 3 pin sensor and connector? Would the truck not fire without the sensor? 1st picture is old cracked rail. 2nd is supposed to be a 2005 Lariat rail which is also supposed to take a 4-pin sensor.

I would have to look this up, but I believe the 4-wire sensor is for pressure and temperature.

The 05 is supposed to also use a 4-wire sensor so I'm not sure if this rail is from a 05 5.4 Triton like it was supposed to be.

Would a bas or disconnected pressure regulator keep the engine from firing? Were you able to listen to the video of it cranking? Does it sound like a timing issue?

I did hear the video, it's difficult to say what the fault is from a video. The fuel rail pressure sensor is a 4 wire Pressure and Temperature sensor. here's the operations of the sensor, the PCM is going to be looking for the signals from that sensor, but you're saying the original pressure/temperature sensor is missing 2 pins on the sensor side, not the harness connector?
If you look at the bottom section of the operations diagram below, it stated the pressure and temperature sensor is used to control the speed of the fuel pump, along with injector pulse width, so having the correct rail and sensor on there would be where I would start with this issue, I'm sure that is going to set a code in the PCM, once that is all repaired correctly, then move on with your diag. If it still doesn't start when you know you have a good functioning sensor and fuel rail, then start checking other components. If the engine has been cranked over a lot without starting the cylinders are going to be washed with fuel as well as the spark plugs, so that is going to affect starting as well. Cylinder wash will actually lower compression a bit.

I replaced the fuel rail with the correct one and wired in a new pressure regulator connector. After holding the throttle on the floor it cranked its way through the flooded cylinders and fired. After it cleared itself out it runs better than I thought it would. Now on to some other minor issues with the turn signals and parking gear lock.

That's great news, if you have questions on another topic such as the turn signals and shifter lock solenoid you should start a new post on either of those topics. We try to keep each post to one question, thanks for letting us know how the repair went. You may want to also do an oil change, when the engine was being cranked over during the no start condition the oil would get somewhat contaminated with gas, so it's a really good idea to change the oil and filter out.

Will do.