Engine missing and backfiring

Disconnect the MAF and see if the issue smooths out. If it does then the PCM is getting a faulty MAF signal. Either from wiring or the sensor.

I then attached the codes if this doesn't resolve it. I would start with the 22 code and move to what I suspect you meant was 34. 33 is a wheel speed sensor code.

Run through this info and let me know what you find. Thanks

It is possible. So what I would do it run through the test and see if you have a short. If not, then you may have two issues. At that point we can get a new post started and figure out the battery draw issue.

However, if you do, we repair it and see if that fixed the draw issue.

When you say you are getting 0 for the MAF does that mean you are following these steps and getting to the circled step? If so, then you have an open circuit, shorted to ground, or a PCM issue. I would check resistance from the PCM to the MAF sensor pin A and then check pin A to pin B.

From PCM to pin A you should have less then a half ohm of resistance. From A to B you should have an open circuit which means it is not shorted to ground.

If this checks out then you most likely have a PCM issue.

As for the no smoke or running rough, that can happen but is not proof of not having an issue. However, this code will cause a hesitation so I would address the MAF issue and then move on and retest the operation once that is operating.

Correct. You do not have a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. You have a MAF (Mass air flow) sensor. They are just two different ways of telling the PCM how much air is entering the engine. The MAP will measure the pressure in the manifold and based on this, it calculates how much air it is pulling in.

The MAF is actually an air flow meter that measures the amount of air that is passing by it so the PCM doesn't need to calculate air flow to determine how much fuel to mix with the air to achieve the proper mixture.

Sounds great. Yeah. Parts catalogs are not always completely accurate. The MAP that they tried to sell you may have been the correct part, just not labeled correctly. Good idea with ordering it online.

Let us know what happens. Thanks for the update.

Okay. The way to test for a short to ground is you put one of your meter leads in terminal A and then touch the other to a good ground location like the negative battery terminal. You need to have your meter on ohms and you should have an open circuit. If you have resistance from terminal A to ground then that means they are making contact which is a short to ground. To test for an open circuit, you need to unhook it from both ends and put one lead in each end of the circuit and check ohms. You should have less then a half ohm of resistance. If you have an high resistance or an open then that is the issue. If neither of these, they say to replace the PCM.

If your battery drains as well, we will need to get a new post started for that because that would not be related to this issue. So let's figure this issue out first and then move to the battery issue.

Okay. If the car won't crank but the dash comes on shows that the ignition switch is at least functioning in the on position so let's move on to the control wire on the starter. Crank the engine and test for voltage on the purple wire at the starter. It is safe to say there is nothing there because this is the control wire. If nothing is there, go to the trans position switch and test it for voltage on the yellow wire when cranking.

If you have it then the position switch is the issue. If not, go before the relay and see if you have voltage.

Let me know these points and we can go from there. Thanks

Can you get a picture of this? I am not exactly sure that would be off the top of my head. Thanks

I like mysteries so let's figure this out. If you get a picture of it I am sure we can identify it. There are not too many parts on cars that stump me once we can see them. Thanks