Temperature gauge not working properly/fluctuating

LEONDE

MEMBER
2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE
4 CYL
TURBO
AUTOMATIC
94,987 MILES

I have the car listed above LTZ that keeps overheating or should I say the temperature needle in the car fluctuates back and forth to hot and you can hear the fan kicking in a long with a message reading turn A/C off due to high temperatures when I don't even have the A/C on. This all starts once I reach speeds to 45 and above. Both of the temperature sensors have been changed, the water pump has been changed, the fan has been changed, we checked for head gasket leaks the water was a light blue on the tester we used didn't turn yellow at all so we figured no leaks in the gaskets. We've changed both of the thermostats and housing because the car has two sets of them no clue on what else it could possibly be. Please help if possible.

5 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,268 POSTS

Hi,

Does the engine actually overheat or do you feel it could be an electrical issue?

I have to be honest. What I would do in this case is scan the CAN bus system. CAN stands for controller/computer area network. Basically, all of the modules/computers are tied together with only a couple wires. By scanning the CAN system, it will show at which module or component there is a problem.

Here is a video showing how it's done and why it is more likely to find the issue. Do this and let me know what you find.

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Also, when you get back with me, I need to know which 4 cylinder engine you have. It could be a 1.4L turbo or a 1.8L non-turbo.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

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Thursday, July 23rd, 2020 AT 9:00 PM

LEONDE

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Hello Joe, the bootleg shop I took it too didn't seem to know what I was talking about when I was telling them to scan my car. So I'm going to try and have it towed to the Chevrolet dealership. But I have a 1.4 engine and it's turbo and do you think my catalytic converter could play a role in my car wanting to run hot when I reach speeds of 45 and above? Because my check engine light came on and it's saying that I have a clogged catalytic converter to such a headache because I've changed everything I can possibly think that would make a car say that it's overheating when it's really not, but you can hear the fans kicking in. Thank you for the help Joe.

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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 6:53 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,268 POSTS

Hi,

A clogged converter on a turbo charged engine can cause all kinds of issues. Was the code a P0420? Also, do you notice any power loss?

Here are a couple links you may find of interest. One discusses symptoms and the other explains how to test one. Note that the test one says to remove the converter to check, but if you remove an oxygen sensor before the converter, you should notice a difference.

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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

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If possible, let me know the code that was found related to the converter issue. If it is truly plugged, you will notice a power loss.

Take care,
Joe

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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 2:01 PM

LEONDE

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Hello Joe, yes, it was the code PO420.

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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 4:24 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,268 POSTS

Hi,

The code indicates the converter is not reaching its threshold. Now, and this is from experience only, anytime I have seen that code, the converter needs replaced. Have you experienced any loss of power?

I attached two pics below. They show the catalytic converter from two points of view. The converter on this vehicle is part of the exhaust manifold. You can see it best from under the hood of the vehicle. It's tough to see from the underside unless the vehicle is lifted.

Do me a favor. After driving it and before you turn it off, open the hood and inspect the converter. If it is plugged, often times it will be glowing red hot.

Also, let me know if you have noticed a loss in power.

Take care,
Joe

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