2003 Chrysler Town and Country Battery Light, Runs rich or

Tiny
BAIR99
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122,454 MILES
I'm having a ball with this van. Originally the battery light came on so first I checked the battery and it was on its last leg so replaced it. Then I checked the alternator and it wasn't performing so I replaced it also. But still the battery light stayed on.

Soon after both were replaced the car started shutting off between 10 seconds to 2 minutes or so. I took of the negative battery cable and reset the computer and it was fine. The next day the same thing. Shortly after it started running really rich and spitting gas out the tail pipe and choking the engine real bad.

Engine diags at a local shop said ECM malfunction, which is what I was thinking too so I replaced it. Same problems still. The problem is now above my mechanical expertise as far as pin pointing the cause.
I'm hoping somebody has had a similar problem with any Diamler Chrysler engine who can give advice before I get robbed by the dealership.
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Wednesday, December 9th, 2009 AT 8:05 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
BAIR99
  • MEMBER
I just read something about the PCM, could this be the source?
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Thursday, December 10th, 2009 AT 5:36 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok first off you will need a digital multi meter to do some testing. I don't guess anything I diagnos. Now what I would like you to is ohm the coolant temp sensor. Simply unplug it and ohm it do this cold and get back to me with the ohms and the temp at the time of the test. Also is the engine light on? If so then is there way to get it scanned so we can see what the car is telling us? Get back to me and we will take it from there.
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
BAIR99
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R
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
BAIR99
  • MEMBER
By happy chance I found the codes I got. P0122, P0118, P0106, P1478, P1496

The reader also registered 4 monitors triggered
for Catalyst, Evaporator, O2 Sensor, and O2 Heater.

I got a multimeter just be the end of the day to get time to test it out so plz keep an eye out. Oh, and if you can seriously help figure it out i'll up the donation quite a bit.
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok so far it looks like all these codes point back to a couple of part the TPS (throttle Possition Sensor) and the MAP Sensor. Now what needs to be done is this. You will need to check the 5 volt supply to these sensors. Now first the Map sensor with key on engine off does it have 5 volts? If so then turn key off and unplug the map sensor now check the supply voltage again does it stay the same or drop below 4.5 volts? If it drops below 4.5 volts then the map sensor is bad. Now the same test at the TPS it drops below 4.5 volts unpluged then it is bad. Now with the TPS you will unplug it and check the 5 volt supply and now unplug the A/C switch on the top of the A/C compressor did the voltage drop? If so then the A/C switch is bad. The wire to check this at on both sensors is pink with a yellow stripe. Let me know what you find.
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Saturday, December 12th, 2009 AT 9:12 AM
Tiny
BAIR99
  • MEMBER
Thanks racefan, it will be a couple of days i'll be out of town working but i'll get the readings as soon as I can so just check in for me.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok that sounds good. Just back to me once you have the readings so we can take it from there.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2009 AT 10:19 AM
Tiny
BAIR99
  • MEMBER
42 degrees F out here today and the ohms were 19k
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Wednesday, December 16th, 2009 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
BAIR99
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Well I just replaced the sensor and it had no bearing on the issue.
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Wednesday, December 16th, 2009 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok sorry did you do the other test I needed you to do to see if there is 5 volts where and when needed as discribed before? If not please do this and let me know what you find.
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Friday, December 18th, 2009 AT 9:34 AM

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