2001 Chrysler Town and Country engine wont run

Tiny
YOSEPH203
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 63,000 MILES
I have a 2001 town and country 63000 miles on it I guess ill start from the begining my car was idling really high 6 months ago and wen I went to go bring it in for insepection it failed cause the computer shorted out they replaced it and still it was idling really high then it happened the head gasket blew and I have spent the past two days fixing it heads were fine and so were the gaskets but there was some antifreeze in the cyliinders and some was burn on the cylinder walls so its all back together now but wen I start it wen it does turn over it starts stalling right from the start and smells like gas.I cant start it so I tried to manually do it but there is no marks on the pulley and none on the engine block so I dont know what else to do please help
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Tuesday, September 29th, 2009 AT 3:21 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
The cylinder heads were just off, I take it. Either the valve timing or something was missed. Since it overheated, there had to have been a reason, since I am not sure of your engine size I believe the valve timing is off, and one or both heads may be warped or cracked. Go over your work to make sure there is something you missed when you put it together. I see that the computer replacement did not fix a high idle complaint. Not bringing it back has put you in a mechanicaly confused state of mind. The transmission has a window near the top of the bell housing next to engine. It is usually protected by a rubber rectangular plug. Bring trans to zero mark on it's window marks and slotted mark on torque converter. Use a large screwdriver and leverage on the torque converter. On zero the valves and engine must be correctly timed, and if the cam sprockets were off and put gack on wrong, thats may be it. Whether you get it running or not, disconnect the negative battery terminal, get a good nights sleep. Then re-connect it and crank it with key and see what codes you have, then ask again with this info. You did have the battery unhooked during engine repair correct? May just need to be cleared and reset at the dealership. Common tow in job. All started with too high an idle speed. And it's repeat failure. Ok
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Tuesday, September 29th, 2009 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
YOSEPH203
  • MEMBER
The engine is 3.3l 6 cylinders I checked the heads they were fine and so were the valves.I tried to check the timing on the engine but I dont see any marks on the cam shaft pully to put it to TDC so is there any other way to check it?
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Tuesday, September 29th, 2009 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
You smell gas? You must check for spark, have a friend turn it over while you hold a plug wire 1/4 inch from ground, if no spark you may have left something disconnected maybe? A 3.3 that was just apart with the heads off would not normally have a valve timing issue. If you smell gas be care ful though, in case of a leak, if it ran ok, just too high an idle, and blew the head gasket, you gotta go over all your work, then check spark and fuel availability. OK
I am starting to understand this website better now. It has been busy now like never before in 7 years. If you need me let me know. Yosef203 I'm josef Joe
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Monday, October 5th, 2009 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
YOSEPH203
  • MEMBER
Ok I fixed the timing it started and ran for a good 30 seconds theres this sucking coming from the throttle body right from the iac motor I think could that be broken? Is it suppose to be wide open when the car starts
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Monday, October 5th, 2009 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
When it starts up the idle is high, then the idle speed motor moves and the idle lowers, if the throttle body has no air hose for the air cleaner on it it always sounds loud until it is back together. It should not have any excessive noise though. You can take it off(idle speed motor) and clean it, the tunnel it goes in, and the whole throttle blade and throat with some cleaner and a small wire brush. Then you can re-install it and check it. Unhook the neg. Cable and let it sit off while you do this. It helps to reset everything.
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Monday, October 5th, 2009 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
YOSEPH203
  • MEMBER
I cleaned that top to bottom :) and still it makes a loud noise even with the hose. Its kinda weird too that when I do get it started and hit the throttle it either stalls out and dies or it goes to 3000rpms then to 2000rpms back and forth a few times and then dies before I posted this I tried to start it again and it did the same and died but its smells really rich.I wish I had a scanner tool and see what codes I have
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Monday, October 5th, 2009 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
You know the throttle bodt has a sensor on the throttle blade that senses the position of it. I can't tell you what the sucking air sounds like from here but remember what I told you to make sure that when its together to disconnect the battery and let it sit a little while then when it is all hooked up it will try to check and reset all the values of a normal idle. So whether the throttle position sensor is telling the PCM that your giving it gas or not is another high or mixed up idle problem. The comp. Thinks the operator of the car wants gas so it sprays more fuel, so here is the big three, Map sensor, throttle position sensor, and the coolant sensor, after these are known to be good the computer uses the o2 sensors, called closed loop.
Idle problems are usually either a vacuum leak, a bum throttle position sensor, or a stuck idle speed motor, the motor is the PCM's(computer) way of controlling the idle. Sort of a controlled vacuum leak. There is a big difference because as the motor moves, fuel is added. At least it is running somewhat. Is it sounding smooth for the 30 seconds it does run?
Now do you see how important disconnecting the battery and having a way to look at(scan) all the sensors is. Especially while it is running just slightly off, you can watch the o2 system.
Don't get too frustrated. Let it go, unhook battery and come back to it when you feel fresh. I think your great doing it by yourself.
After you have it apart, if anything gets unhooked and gets key on, the scanner will blow up with codes, I am sure you always disconnect, repair, then after all is connected, hook up battery and start. If you don't have a vacuum leak of some kind one or both of the throttle sensors are bad, but I can't tell people it is this or that, no good. OK yoseph Brett Favre is throwing very good and I will check back tomorrow.
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Monday, October 5th, 2009 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
YOSEPH203
  • MEMBER
For the 30 seconds it ran it was running like crap very shaky I do follow the rule of disconnecting the battery when I do repairs lol so ithe next thing ill do is just disconnect the battery and rent a scanner tool and see what comes up I have a feeling its a sensor thats burn out I just dont know which one im gonna take a video of this car when I try to start it maybe by seeing and hearing it you may get more ideas.I do wanna thank you for all your help tho its been greatly appreciated
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Monday, October 5th, 2009 AT 10:52 PM
Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
So you may have amiss or two but remember, the plugs are still loaded up with gas or oil or just need to be blown out. By heat. Your doing good. Just be sure that the plenum has no missing hoses like purge or pcv or any leaks in the intake, bigtime. The problem has to be the TPS or the motor, Unless a connector or fuse or even the computer itself. It trys to run, you believe in yourself, and your gonna get serious nos, ok. I'll check back everyday, but sometimes 10, 12, 3, 6, 7 All EST I live in NJ and do these transmissions and problems all day ok. Have good day. Yoseph
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Tuesday, October 6th, 2009 AT 11:00 AM

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