That would be the domestic model.
I don't mean to imply your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing, but to verify, the upper strut mounts can be slid in and out to tip the top of the tire. Before it can be repositioned for the first time, a plastic pin must be removed and discarded. If that factory-installed pin isn't removed, the mount won't move.
You can see for yourself if adjustments were attempted on the wheel. Remove the large round black plastic cover on the strut tower. It's held on with two hollow molded-in plastic pegs that must be carefully pried up. Under the front attaching peg is where the off-white rounded lock pin was. If it's still visible about an inch below the hole, no alignment adjustment was made. If that pin is gone, leaving just an empty hole, look at the four silver mounting bolts about 4" apart. If they were loosened and moved, you will see evidence in the dirt and dust on the paint around the bolt heads.
Normally there is enough movement available to bring the tire to specs, but if that can't be done, I would look at the reading from the other tire. If it is off just as much the other way, I would try to re-center the lower cross member. The lower suspension is attached to the cross member and will pull the bottoms of the tires into position when it is moved. That procedure is usually a last resort when normal adjustments don't provide enough range.
Saturday, February 27th, 2010 AT 7:21 AM