First, park on a slight incline, put the transmission in neutral, and release the brake pedal. The car should creep ahead by itself. If it doesn't, a brake is sticking. That would explain the overheated and cracked rotors. Jack the front end up and try to turn the tires by hand. Suspect the left one to be tight based on your observations about worn pads.
When the brake is sticking, loosen the lines at the master cylinder just a little. If the brakes release, suspect fluid contamination with petroleum product. Proof will be found by inspecting the rubber bladder seal under the reservor cap. If it balloons up and is soft and mushy, ALL rubber parts in the system must be replaced and the steel lines must be flushed and dried. The lip seals in the master cylinder will swell and grow past the return ports, blocking them and trapping the fluid.
If the brakes don't release at the master cylinder, open the bleeder screw for the stuck caliper. If you see a tiny spurt of fluid and the brake releases, look at the rubber hose. If there is a metal anchor bracket in the middle of the hose, there is likely rust buildup under the part that is crimped around the hose. Use a large pliers to peel that crimp open just a little. The rust buildup constricts the hose. Fluid will be forced past the restriction by heavy foot pressure on the pedal, but the fluid can't flow freely back to the reservoir. Two other clues to this problem are you won't be able to easily pry the piston into the caliper housing with a screwdriver, like normal, and the brake pedal will be higher and harder than normal.
Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 4:02 AM