Valve Train Oil

TXWAYNO

MEMBER
CHRYSLER LE BARON

I recently purchased a 1994 LeBarron 3.0, automatic with 44,000 miles on it for my son. It had a small water leak that led to him overheating the car and warping the heads. I took the heads off and had them presure tested, resurfaced and replaced the valve seals. I put the heads back on with all new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, tensioners and idler pulleys. I went by a Chilton for torque specs and applied lots of assembly lube. Changed out the oil, put in new plugs, rotor and dist. Cap. Once started, the engine had a "clatter" from the rear valve cover. I ran the engine shortly thinking that it needed to pump the oil up, but the "clatter" continued. It did not take long before the valve train locked up causing the timing belt to strip at the crank. When I pulled the valve cover back off, there was absolutely no oil on the valve train. Why would it not be pumping oil to the rear valve train? Now I am not sure it was pumping to either side.

Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 9:11 PM

3 Replies

MHPAUTOS

MECHANIC
31,937 POSTS

Hi there,

It sounds like a case of lack of oil due to swarf. I think that maybe the head was not cleaned after the machining was done. As a large amount of cooling liquid can be used whem machining, swarf or the metal removed when machining is carried away by the coolant, this can enter the oil galleries and the heavy metal can be deposired in any stick oil residue. It is vital that all the oil gallries are cleaned befor re fitting as if there is any swarf build up it can block the oil from doing what it's ment to do, lubricate.

Mark (mhpautos)

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Monday, August 20th, 2007 AT 12:13 AM

TXWAYNO

MEMBER
2 POSTS

Sounds like I am going to be removing the heads again. Also, this was the first time I had ever seen a cam with no bearings. I asume it is meant to float on a layer of oil?

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Monday, August 20th, 2007 AT 3:04 PM

MHPAUTOS

MECHANIC
31,937 POSTS

Hi there,

Yes I would be removing the heads, check everything the by word is clean! I would change the oil & filter as well, because if swarf is the problem it may have beeb flushed into the block by now, I would look around for an oil flushing compound and make sure that you are happy that all is clean. I would be checking the oil pressure when you start up again, check the specks before starting and if there is any problem with oil pressure shut down and re think things, best to be safe then sorry. As for the cam bearings, yes cam bearings are just about a thing of the past now, with high quality oils and close tollarance machining, the head parent material is the bearing surface. Some cars only have a machined surface on the top shell, and use the pressure of the valves to hold the cam off the lower surface, this is cheap and works very well, my Aussie built ford has this set up and has done over 400,000 Kms no problems.

Mark (mhpautos)

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Monday, August 20th, 2007 AT 5:21 PM