1996 Chrysler Cirrus no drive no reverse GO TO 2 PAGE

Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
  • 1996 CHRYSLER CIRRUS

Transmission problem
1996 Chrysler Cirrus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 170000 miles

when engine is cold I have drive and reverse, as soon as the engine gets hot I have no drive or reverse. Fluid is over filled maybe 1/4 to 1/2 qt. The trans fluid is dark, some material in pan. There is no check engine light. The coolant is coming out of the overflow and radiator cap. Looks like thermostat is opening. Coolant pressure builds up fans kicks on then hose relaxes, but coolant still comes out the overflow and cap. Probly two different problems. I think the torque converter is bad. Not getting a check engine lite so the TCC should be ok. Could not find a test port to check the pressure. Maybe send diagram.

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Sunday, April 11th, 2010 AT 4:59 PM

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Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
  • MEMBER

[quote="bobby lancaster"]Transmission problem
1996 Chrysler Cirrus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 170000 miles

when engine is cold I have drive and reverse, as soon as the engine gets hot I have no drive or reverse. Fluid is over filled maybe 1/4 to 1/2 qt. The trans fluid is dark, some material in pan. There is no check engine light. The coolant is coming out of the overflow and radiator cap. Looks like thermostat is opening. Coolant pressure builds up fans kicks on then hose relaxes, but coolant still comes out the overflow and cap. Probly two different problems. I think the torque converter is bad. Not getting a check engine lite so the TCC should be ok. Could not find a test port to check the pressure. I'll probly have to tear the transmission down to inspect. Could you send me exploded view of valve body and enternal trans and torque specs. Its 2.5 eng. W/overdrive trans.

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Monday, April 12th, 2010 AT 7:35 AM
Tiny
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Tranny having particles in the pan is a bad sign. Could be clutch material. The pump may work enough to move when cold, but the fluid thins a bit when warm, and the pump looses it's effectiveness. Any discoloration of the antifreeze? If it looks like a milk shake(strawberry) it could be the answer to both issues, the tranny cooler tank on the radiator may have cracked internally.

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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 12:46 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Are you saying the pump is bad. Could you send me exploded view of valve body, check ball location and internal trans.

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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
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It's possible. Testing required. I will look for your charts. Check your email later.

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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Took trans out, disassembled pump and the gears are burnt and the torque converter hub is burnt. The clutches look good. Suggest replacing pump and torque converter?

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Wednesday, April 14th, 2010 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
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Definitely!

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Wednesday, April 14th, 2010 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Why would the pump and torque converter be scored and burnt there were no fluid leaks. It is a rebuilt trans. There is an oil cooler bypass valve. Should I look for something else. Good diagrams, thanks.

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Wednesday, April 14th, 2010 AT 6:15 PM
Tiny
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I dont know how many miles are on it, but the screen may have clogged, or an engine overheat, or low/old fluid.

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Thursday, April 15th, 2010 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Replaced pump and torque converter new filter and fluid. Works great. Thanks for your help. GO TO NEXT PAGE> GO TO NEXT PAGE.

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Friday, April 16th, 2010 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
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Great! Good work Bobby.

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Friday, April 16th, 2010 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Where is the thermostat located? Could you send diagram.

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Sunday, April 18th, 2010 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
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Been out for a few days, contractor has hous in shambles! I will look it up for the diagram this afternoon.

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Wednesday, April 21st, 2010 AT 2:57 AM
Tiny
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Removal & Installation (3.3L & 3.5L) 1. Drain coolant below thermostat level. Remove thermostat housing bolts. Remove thermostat assembly. Clean gasket surface. Install thermostat into intake manifold recess. Using new gasket, install thermostat housing and mounting bolts. See Fig. 8 . 2. Fill cooling system. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature. Bleed air from system. See COOLING SYSTEM BLEEDING . Check coolant level.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_cirrus_1.jpg

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Wednesday, April 21st, 2010 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Its a 2.5 eng. Not a 3.3. Or a 3.5

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Thursday, April 22nd, 2010 AT 6:59 AM
Tiny
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I thought you said it was a V6?
Removal & Installation (2.5L)
1.Drain coolant below thermostat level. Remove coolant recovery system hose. Remove thermostat housing bolts. Remove coolant inlet elbow from thermostat housing. Remove thermostat assembly. See Fig. 7 . 2.Install thermostat into thermostat housing recess. Ensure vent in thermostat body is installed facing upward. Using new gasket, install coolant inlet elbow and bolts. Tighten bolts to 132 INCH lbs. (12 N.m). 3.Fill cooling system. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature. Bleed air from system. See COOLING SYSTEM BLEEDING . Check coolant level.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_25_1.jpg

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Thursday, April 22nd, 2010 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Installed rebuilt torque converter and pump. Good test drive shifted good and good performance. He didn't drive it for a week cause of overheating, had new water pump put in last monday. Drove the car for three days run good, wednsday had to pick him up on the e-way off ramp. No forward gears and no reverse. With the car not running the trans goes in park ok and in all other gears the trans is free rolling ok. But when the engine is running the trans is locked up in all gears. Have to say that when putting the shift cable back on after trans installation (initial repair) the shifter was hard going into manual low. After towing the car back to my house and inspecting cable found that the cable popped off the shifter on console and the cable hold down bracket at trans mount was not adjusted properly. Fixed that. But still no forward and reverse. Why is this condition happening. Posible linkage going to manual valve bent. Or posibly bad touque converter and pump again.

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Friday, May 14th, 2010 AT 10:36 AM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Friday, May 14th, 2010 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
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When you did the converter, if the shaft was burnt it may need more work, also the entire transmission may have been contaminated by metal shavings circulating in the fluid.
Did you flush everything? Tranny, cooler lines and cooler? Any more codes stored?

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Friday, May 14th, 2010 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
BOBBY LANCASTER
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Elaborate on the torque converter statement, what do you mean it needs more work. No I didn't flush the cooler lines. The pump was scored and burnt, wasn't very much material in pan very fine brass from pump bushing you had to hold the pan in the sun light to see it. So are you ruling out my theory about the shifter cable?

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Saturday, May 15th, 2010 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
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Did it test drive OK when you did the converter and pump? Yes you always flush the entire system after doing the pump and converter, if the gears and clutches are now burned, It needs a rebuild. If the shifter cable was misadjusted it wouldn't shift right during the test drive. And the pointer would not line up with the p, R, D.

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