Engine cranks but does not start

Tiny
G300_
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER 300
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,150 MILES
Good day. The car may have a fuel related problem. Two days ago, I left from work in the night and I knew the gas needle was on low but I typically put gas in my area to go home right after. I forgot to put gas and headed straight home. The next morning, I knew I urgently had to put gas because the needle was less than 1/4 of the whole tank. So I did, the car turned on perfect before refueling. Arriving to the gas station approximately half a mile away, I put 87 octane fuel (manufacture recommended) at a not-so-great station where I sometimes go for convenience. After refueling, the symptoms began occurring. First start from the gas station, the engine cranked once and turn on immediately. I thought this was odd since my car usually takes two to four turns before it turns on. While driving, there was a noticeable lag when pressing the gas pedal and trying to accelerate under load. Car also sounded like there was knock occurring in the engine area only when under load. Later that day after resting the car for approximately three hours, I turned my car on. This time, the car turned on somewhat fast but then when the car would idle at 1,000-1,500 rpm's, the rpm needle would dip down to about 500 rpm and the car would hesitate/shake a bit, then go back up to idle rpm, then dip back down and hesitate again and so forth. The car luckily worked so I could get to work but before heading to work, it took about two attempts before the car turned on. Leaving from work at night, the first initial start for the car was rough. I pressed on the gas pedal so the engine wouldn’t shut off. I made I home luckily. The next morning was when it all went downhill. Tried to turn the car on, the engine would only turn over but not turn on the car. A couple attempts later and pressing the gas pedal, the car turned on for a mere five seconds, a cloud of gray smoke exited the exhaust, and then the car shut off. That attempt was the last attempt I tried and I determined it was due to a faulty fuel pump or not enough fuel pressure. Sorry for the long story I’m just trying to be very detailed. I really appreciate your help and any advice you may have and thank you for helping.
Sunday, March 17th, 2019 AT 11:56 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,047 POSTS
Thanks for the detail helps us find out what's going on. :) it sounds like the throttle bore is dirty and the computer and throttle plate loose correlation putting the engine in limp mode or able to idle correctly. Please disconnect your battery before the service, please follow this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, March 18th, 2019 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
G300_
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
UPDATE: apologies for the delay. So I went ahead and visited my local parts store to pick up a can of MAF sensor cleaner and TB cleaner. Left the MAF sensor and TB in pretty good clean shape. Let it dry and assembled the pieces back together. Unfortunately, this did not fix the initial issue in my initial reply. Went for a test drive and felt the same. However upon inspecting the engine bay, I noticed a noticeable hiss and thought there might be a vacuum leak. Sure enough the EGR valve where it meets the intake manifold was allowing air to leak in. Went ahead and temporarily placed Teflon tape and my hand to cover the leak. Asked a friend to start the car for the first time in a couple of days and sure enough, the engine started slightly slowly but surely and didn’t notice any fluctuation in the rpm’s. Before this, in my test drive, there was an instance where the car was trembling at low idle on “D” and my foot on the brake and triggered the ETC light to flash and as if the car went into limp mode. When I gave it gas slowly, the car wouldn’t budge much and I believe the car died. Turned it back on and it was fine but the same problem persisted from the start. So far so good. Will post back with any updates on the car. Also, not sure if some codes popped up prior to fixing the leak but I got a P1684 and P061A. Thanks.
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Friday, March 22nd, 2019 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,047 POSTS
Good find I would check the EGR valve operation as well. here is a video to help:

https://youtu.be/DqUCbbKdWf4

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Saturday, March 23rd, 2019 AT 2:29 PM

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