1997 Chevy Truck 97 K1500 w/305

Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I just put a crank kit in my 305 (new crank and bearings).

Got the engine back in. I've set the distributor to #1 TDC on the compression stroke. I've got fuel and spark. The truck is turning over fine - but will not fire up.

I know the rotor is turning - so I know my timing chain is set. I've got new plugs, cap and rotor. All sensors are connected.

Might this have something to do with my crank position sensor? Cam position sensor? I can't figure out why this won't start.

Thanks for any advice.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 10:21 AM

27 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Do you have spark? Is there fuel pressure? Unplug cam shaft sensor see if it fires
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Yes - I have spark at the plugs.

I've flooded it a couple of times while trying to start it so I know that I'm getting gas (wet plugs).

Also - in case you need to know, the truck started fine before I pulled the engine. Never a problem.

Will one tooth on my distributor keep it from firing? I would think that if I'm off a tooth it should still try to fire - even if it runs like crap?
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 10:53 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
With the engine cranking, is there spark at the plugs, injector pulse.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Yes - with the engine cranking I get spark at the plugs.

What is injector pulse? I'm assuming you're talking about the fuel injectors?
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Put timimg light on engine see what you got
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
I didn't see the earlier posts, you might check cranking vacuum? See if there is any.
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+1
Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
SLIMWILLIE
  • MEMBER
When you installed the dist. Was the timing marks still dot to dot? If so, there is your problem. A v8 chevy is 180 degrees out when you line up the marks. It's actually lined up on #6. Easy to fix, pull #1 plug and rotate engine in the direction of starter motion with finger over #1 plug hole till it begins to blow your finger off and turn crank to top dead center and reindex dist. To the #1 position. Also remember you will have to set the cam retard with a scan tool at your local mechanic shop if you don't have one of your own ! Hope this is your fix ! William
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Will the cam retard keep it from firing?

I can rent a scan tool at autozone - but I've never used one. Is it a straightforward process or should I leave it to my shop?
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
SLIMWILLIE
  • MEMBER
Cam retard is basically a signal used by the pcm to determine where the camshaft is at in the total scheme of things. Yes cam retard can cause one NOT to start if it is off far enough. My next question is was the dist 180 degrees out? If so your plugs are probably fouled out and this will cause a no start after the problem is corrected. Clean or replace the plugs (yes I know they're expensive) and reindex the dist. Heres an easy rule of thumb to get the dist close. Look on the bottom of your dist cap and mark where #1 electrode is located inside the dist cap.(It will be strange looking as the electrodes dont line up with the corresponding plug wire terminal) With your timing marks on TDC on compression stroke #1 cyl Put the rotor pointer at the mark you made on the outside of the cap and the engine should start. Dont forget to replace or clean the plugs after everything is done or you will be chasing your tail in circles. It should be the very last thing you do!Please respond
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Ok. Thanks all!

I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow after I work on it tonight!
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
I am at a complete loss.

I pulled my plugs - cleaned them up and left them out over night.

I pulled the valve cover on the passenger side - driver's side valve cover means that I have to pull the AC to get it off.

I bumped the engine around until I saw the #6 intake valve open - then brought my timing mark up to TDC - which means my rotor should be on the #6 plug in the distributor.

I bump the timing mark around 1 more time (on the harmonic balancer) - and now I should be on #1 TDC compression stroke. Line up the rotor with #1 on the distributor cap - go to start it. Nothing. It cranks over fine but won't start - getting gas and spark.

Someone said Chevy V8's are 180 out? What does that mean? You asked if I lined up the timing dots - are you talking about the dots on the crank and camshaft gears for the timing belt? If so - yes, I did line those up.

Help please! If someone would be willing to call me, I'll gladly pay you for your time. I don't want to tow this to the Chevy dealer.

(269) 985-5735
home: (269) 473-3616

Thanks - Glen
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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 7:32 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Well. I think I found the issue. My harmonic balancer seems to be off. I don't understand how that can happen seeing as how it's keyed to the crankshaft.

I pulled the valve covers and while watching the intake valves - I can see #1 intake open and then begin to close as #8 is opening. The mark on my harmonic balancer is nowhere in sight in order to bump to my timing mark on the timing chain cover.

I almost had it firing (sparks and exhaust) by setting it according to my intake valves - figured I was a tooth off - moved the distributor - went to start it again - and my starter quit.

Now, when I turn the key - I get nothing. Solenoid doesn't click or anything and all my dashboard warning indicators are stuck on. I'm guessing that I missed a ground connection somewhere, or blew a fuse.

The crappy part of this - I also totaled the wife's mini-van Saturday afternoon (on the way back from the parts store) and am now down to zero vehicles until the insurance gets straightened out.

Gotta get my ignition problem figured out tonight after work because I think I'm close to getting it to fire.
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Monday, March 16th, 2009 AT 8:10 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
William - I know you tried to call but my wife accidentally deleted your messages.
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Monday, March 16th, 2009 AT 10:22 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
For anyone following this thread -

I got it turning over again. Followed the troubleshooting guide from the manual and found a blown starter relay in the underhood fuse box - replaced it and it's cranking again.

Now I'm back to trying to get it to fire.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Hey
pull #1 plug have someone rotate engine by hand. You put finger in plug hole rotate till you feel compression. Then put screw driver in hole feel top of piston rotate till pistion all the way up. Now you are true TDC. Look to see where balancer mark is and rotor. If mark on and rotor points to #1 then it should fire.
Let me know
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 7:55 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Hi Docfixit

I think that's been part of my problem this whole time.

The timing mark on the harmonic balancer is not even close to TDC on my timing cover.

When I see intake #1 close and #8 open - I know I have to be close to TDC because of the firing order:

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

If #1 intake is closed and #8 is open - I should be able to see the mark on my harmonic balancer. I don't understand how it could be off - since it's keyed to the crankshaft - unless whoever had the truck before me had work done to it.

My dots on the timing and crankshaft gears (for the timing chain) lined up fine before I put the engine back in the truck - (crank dot at 12o'clock - cam dot at 6 o'clock). I even marked the chain and gears with paint before disassembly and put it back together the same after installing the crank kit.

When those dots are lined up - is that supposed to been TDC on #1 compresion stroke? The manual doesn't say -
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Ys when dots line up that is TDC #1 compression stroke. Balancer has a rubber ring that the outer ring with mark attaches. They can slip and throw mark. But engine will run if rotor points to #1 on cap.
If you do what I said in last post all doubt will be removed.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
Ok thanks - I'll try it again tonight.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 8:35 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Was CKP sensor replaced? Wiring O.K.
Was key way up on top of crank when you installed balancer? Just some after thoughts.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 8:49 AM
Tiny
GLENKLEIN
  • MEMBER
CKP has not been replaced yet. Replaced timing cover but used old CKP. I do know that Chevy has a service bulletin that says to replace CKP if engine does not start though. Right now, I'm assuming my problem is with timing.

I had it close on saturday - lots of exhaust and and chugging. Figured I was a tooth off - moved dizzy one tooth - went to try it again, and that's when the starter relay popped. Couldn't try to start it again last night because I needed to charge my battery.

I don't remember where the key was when I put the balancer on for sure.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 8:56 AM

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