1990 S-10 Blazer replacing coupling at steering box

Tiny
APPLETREASURES
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER
I just bought a used 1990 S-10 Blazer with 4.3L V6, automatic, power steering. It could not be started and driven home due to an oil leak. I had it towed home. While rolling it into my parking space with the engine off it is very hard to steer. I turned the wheel so hard that I broke the coupling where the steering wheel shaft enters the steering box.

1) Where can I get the replacement part?
2) What is it called?
3) What is the rough cost?
4) Is it a job that I can likely do myself?
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 9th, 2007 AT 5:05 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Dealer is the source,
I think it was around &100.00 for the part.

Intermidiate shaft or coupler. The parts department will know exactly what you mean, those little u-joints were a problem. You should be able to do it, I'll see what I can find for info.

You will want to change the spark plugs on that side while the shaft is out. Or should I say, You'll wished you changed the while you had it out if you didn't!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 9th, 2007 AT 5:56 AM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Here is an Exploded view. I was thinking of a different design.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_shaft_1.jpg



The shaft ( #3) runs around $230.00 . Look it over and decide if it is a job within your capibility. If you want the r & r procedure let me know. Hopefully the part is still available.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, May 10th, 2007 AT 5:28 AM
Tiny
APPLETREASURES
  • MEMBER
I was able to get the part from Kragen for about $10.00. They had two universal replacement parts one a bit larger than the other. It is basically a rubber disc with threads in it for re-enforcement (looked much like a piece of tire). The shaft above and below bolt to the disc. I had someone replace it for me. It seems fine now. Next I need to solve the problem of the oil squirting from the upper oil cooling line as it enters the top of the radiator. I am told the line is likely cracked and should just be replaced. Any advice on things to be very careful about when replacing the pair of cooling lines? One thing that occurs to me is to be sure to place a oil changing pan under spot where lines enter block (next to oil filter) to catch oil when lines are removed. Any special cautions when tightening the fittings?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, July 12th, 2007 AT 1:23 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides