1999 Suburban 90,000 miles transmission problems

Tiny
DONNAK
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
My suburban when driving will act like it has slipped out of gear and when I hit the gas it just revs. I have to pull over to the side of the road and shut it off wait a minute then turn it back on. Then the tranny pops into gear and is fine for a short while and the tranny goes out of gear all over again and I have too pull over all over again. Does anyone know what it could be. I am leaning towards the transmission speed sensor. Does that sound right? I am a single married (husband is a over the road trucker) mother of 5 and really need it back up and running.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Saturday, July 21st, 2007 AT 7:23 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
KIN CHAN
  • MEMBER
Maybe u should ask. What condition external and internal that will inhibit the cooling system to transfer heat thermodynamically or is it abnormal combustion temp that a factory spec cooling system fail. Maybe u are not sure if it is really over heating without a real thermometer to mearsure the cooling sytem? Huh?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, July 21st, 2007 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the input, but I do have thermometer, also have rad PSI test pump, my Dad "was " now retired for 23 years " a Mechanic for 47 years, he has seen everything I have gone through, the only thing he had left to add was that the antifreeze brook down and jelled and then hardened, and covers up the back cyclinder walls keeping them from cooling, only came across this once and that was in 68, acid bath the blook, but with todays stuff I didn't think that was my problem, since I had the head off and could see down the back water jacket.
Thanks any way.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, July 21st, 2007 AT 10:05 PM
Tiny
KIN CHAN
  • MEMBER
What u described and approach sounds(to me is(correct me if I am wrong anytime) - case problems are solve by experienced resources who derived the solution from the past history. Another word. If they never seen that happen b4 then they can't fix a problem. How bout this. Understand what basic principle of the thermodynamics internal combustion engine. Then ones can react and decipher whats valuable information to solves problems even no1 ever encounter b4. Cuz what ever happen out there new or old. It still gotta be hold up under the law of physics. Agree?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, July 21st, 2007 AT 11:54 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
My 3cts

also have rad PSI test pump,

When you pressurized it to its capacity and fire it up what kind of reading/movement is it giving you.

Have you tried block testing it-to rule out hydrocarbons leakage. Or sniff it out with an exhaust gas analyzer.

Add one 12" electric fan on front side of rad, does this helps. Normally its mounted on the backside and operating in the correct direction of rotation.

Have you check for exhaust restriction

Run the engine w/o the Stat and see what happens within 5 minutes.

If your cooling system is not physically leaking and all those items are replaced as new-then you're burning it or your temperature gauge is out of calibration.

When the gauge says overheating and open the hood do you hear boiling in the radiator or the resevoir container.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:02 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
Yes I do lose coolant, 3 to 4 liters at a time, when truck is emty and driving the highway, trucks about 1/2 up the Ford gauge(Ford has the word Normal and a bar line on each side of the word, with about a letter space between the word), now for the fisrt 280,000km or so it always stayed at the "N"- truck loaded or not. Then one day for no reason really it went past the last bar to "H" blow the drain plug right of the rad and has been running hot ever since. That was 9yrs ago. NO the gauges do not fall right away, it takes some time, the overflow is also over flowing, when it cools down, the engine sucks all that remains in the overflow until it sucks air. Right now when I pull the trailer I have(17ft), with no thermostat, the gauge will be at the "L"(of the word normal), with 5 to 8 km and stay there. The check engine light at that point will flicker on and off. Speed of travel 90kmp, take your foot out of it and coast down a small hill(300yrds or so) and the gauge will drop between the "M" and "A" of the word on the gauge, step back into it and it will be back to the "L" with in 1Km on the flat. This whole time the clutch fan never kicks in. I still have the one the truck came with, I have tried three different kind of after maket ones(they never kicked in) and the got a forth one right from Ford$$$, and is still on the truck and seem no different than the one that came with the truck, and it also never kicks in, ever. I have even taken some coat hanger wire and wired the pulley bolts to the clutch fan bolts, to hear the sound differents, I know for a fact, that the clutch fan has never kicked in on this truck for over 18yrs. The wires broke, lasted about 70km, to much strain I guess. Sounds like a jet taking off at 90k, lol
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:11 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Lets talk about this ( clutch fan never kicks in. ) Are we dealing with an electric fan or the one with a blade with a clutch on it.

Checking the clutch fan operation: when the engine cools down is should rarely spin and when engine is hot it will resist spinning a bit.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:21 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
Well I will not test the laws of physics, I understand how the system works, and have had payed money to some rad pro shop, they told my 2nd Alum. Rad was no good after only two years( the first one got a rock in it), so they built the 3 core copper rad, with costom tanks and everything. Holding three liters more than stock. Truck was still over heating under load, and 2 months later blew out 27 of the cores and they could not fix it. Thats when I put back in the 2nd Alum. One, for I asked for it back at the time. As for taking it to Ford again and pay 110$ /hr for them to stand there and scatch thier heads, since I already replaced everything, I don't think so.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:25 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
The clutch fan is the type that has a single 1 1/8" nut that threads to the water pump pulley. The five blade fan bolts to the back side of the fined fluid clutch, with a heat spring on the front side of it, facing the rad. There is some drag to it when the engine is not running, but you can turn it with your hand, the old one that came with the truck is the same way. But these clutch fans never kick in on this truck. It should lock-up for a few seconds when one starts the truck even cold, but never does anything, it does draw air in its slipping stait, but does not lock-up to the engines RPM. Even when the truck engine has been hot, hand I have had to pull over, shut the truck off, over flow tank is over flowing and you can spin that clutch fan by hand, same as when cold.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:35 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Here's more

Reasons Engines Overheat

Engines overheat for all kinds of reasons, both inside and outside the cooling system, including:

Cylinder-head gaskets installed backwards
Crumpled or pinched exhaust pipes
Improper ignition timing
Any airflow restriction in front of the radiator (such as a dirty air-conditioning condenser)
Lower radiator hose missing the anti-collapse spring (overheating happens when you hit the freeway, and goes away when you get off)
Belt slippage (yes, it happens)
Improper water-pump-pulley sizing
Blocked cooling-system passages (corrosion, gasket sealer, stop-leak, and so on)
Improper fan for application (such as a reverse-rotation fan installed in error or fan installed backwards)
Improper valve timing (cam sprocket installed improperly)
Improper engine building clearances (too tight)
Fuel mixture extremely lean (carburetor jetting)
Blown cylinder-head gasket (especially with unexplainable coolant loss)
Coolant in the engine oil
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:43 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
Have not ran the truck with the test pump hooked up, only tested to see if I'm losing psi, I'm not
Exhaust is new, 3" right through, High flow muffler.
Running the engine now with out any thermostat for the past two weeks, will be testing flow(by eye with cap off) tomorrow, and a set in rad gauge.
Yes the engine boils over to the point that the overflow tank can't hold it all and runs all over the ground.
The electric fan is in front of the rad with the fan running in reverse, so it blows, because the big fan on the water pump pulley is still being used. The electric fan has not seemed to have fixed anything, other than maybe gives me a few more mile before I need to let the engine cool down.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:46 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
The clutch fan is the type that has a single 1 1/8" nut that threads to the water pump pulley. The five blade fan bolts to the back side of the fined fluid clutch, with a heat spring on the front side of it, facing the rad. There is some drag to it when the engine is not running, but you can turn it with your hand, the old one that came with the truck is the same way. But these clutch fans never kick in on this truck. It should lock-up for a few seconds when one starts the truck even cold, but never does anything, it does draw air in its slipping stait, but does not lock-up to the engines RPM. Even when the truck engine has been hot, hand I have had to pull over, shut the truck off, over flow tank is over flowing and you can spin that clutch fan by hand, same as when cold.[/Quote:f3b9b5cb9d]

Try this old school:

"With the truck cold, tie a length of "kite string" to one of the fan blades, and the other end to some point in the engine compartment. Then start
the truck.

The string should be able to hold the fan when the engine is cold, and a good fan will break the string with engine warm."
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 2:18 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
New hose's with coil wire in bottom hose, new water pump, had three different new thermostats, (2-194deg-stock setting and even 1-185deg) now running with nothing. New head gasket and NO it's not put in wrong on this engine, can only fit one way. And there was nothing wrong with the old one anyway. Head has been hot bathed, valves and sets resurfaced, and head shaved.007. The engine is malti-port injected, intake has been cleaned, new EGR system parts. Fan is installed correct. Is not burning coolant, engine only uses 1 liter of oil in 6000klm driving emty, and 1liter in three tanks of fuel when pulling 17ft trailer loaded. No coolant in oil. Never has been. Engine has never been rebuilt, this problem started at 286,000km and the truck now has 458,000 on it. And only one owner, me. About the engine running lean, not sure about that, being fuel injected, but I do have another truck, with the same engine, but a year newer, with only 292,000km on it, picked up 100$ after it hit a power pole, thinking of taking the (chip) out of that one and puting it in my truck. But my truck has always been a turn key runner, one crank and it starts. I also have put in new gear to gear timing set, and the timing is set at spec. About the belt slipping, only one belt for all with tensioner, and yes I did replace that some time ago. And ther is NO A/C.
3inch exhaust-front to back, high flow muffler, all good.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 2:22 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
The clutch fan is the type that has a single 1 1/8" nut that threads to the water pump pulley. The five blade fan bolts to the back side of the fined fluid clutch, with a heat spring on the front side of it, facing the rad. There is some drag to it when the engine is not running, but you can turn it with your hand, the old one that came with the truck is the same way. But these clutch fans never kick in on this truck. It should lock-up for a few seconds when one starts the truck even cold, but never does anything, it does draw air in its slipping stait, but does not lock-up to the engines RPM. Even when the truck engine has been hot, hand I have had to pull over, shut the truck off, over flow tank is over flowing and you can spin that clutch fan by hand, same as when cold.[/Quote:060836a425]

Try this old school:

"With the truck cold, tie a length of "kite string" to one of the fan blades, and the other end to some point in the engine compartment. Then start
the truck.

The string should be able to hold the fan when the engine is cold, and a good fan will break the string with engine warm."[/Quote:060836a425]

That sounds like fun, I will give that a try, but as I have been told, and have seen this, when cold the clutch fan should lock-up for a few seconds when one first start the engine, and then release and free wheel. Which mine does not do and never has, but my dads does, so does my brothers trucks, and my buddy's trucks, and I have done lots work on his, that what friends are for right. Lol free beer
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 2:28 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
The clutch fan is the type that has a single 1 1/8" nut that threads to the water pump pulley. The five blade fan bolts to the back side of the fined fluid clutch, with a heat spring on the front side of it, facing the rad. There is some drag to it when the engine is not running, but you can turn it with your hand, the old one that came with the truck is the same way. But these clutch fans never kick in on this truck. It should lock-up for a few seconds when one starts the truck even cold, but never does anything, it does draw air in its slipping stait, but does not lock-up to the engines RPM. Even when the truck engine has been hot, hand I have had to pull over, shut the truck off, over flow tank is over flowing and you can spin that clutch fan by hand, same as when cold.[/Quote:95c92f3663]

Try this old school:

"With the truck cold, tie a length of "kite string" to one of the fan blades, and the other end to some point in the engine compartment. Then start
the truck.

The string should be able to hold the fan when the engine is cold, and a good fan will break the string with engine warm."[/Quote:95c92f3663]

Have you check the water pump impeller for play-

Well Gunny is the resident manager in Ford Products he knows his First On Race Day thingy lead him lead the way.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 2:30 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
Well combustion temp is lowered by the EGR system, and this is done also to keep the valves cooler, this is one of the reason why engine last so much longer than the engines of the 60's. But the over heating problom keeps happening. I could maybe try changing the sending unit for the gauge, not sure if it the on board computor to lean out the injectors, it is this would cause high temp combustion. Something try. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 2:36 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
Well there something I never thought of. I do no an engine Tec. Guy that has a tinny little camera on a flex wand. Just like the one a surgin uses to go up one nose and down into one lungs. And yes it even has a tinny little light too. I had the lung check thing done back in 91, I almost died, but still here, lol I will have a chat with him and see what he thinks. Thanks for the idea.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 2:47 AM
Tiny
KIN CHAN
  • MEMBER
It work and I never expected! Hah!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
New hose's with coil wire in bottom hose, new water pump, had three different new thermostats, (2-194deg-stock setting and even 1-185deg) now running with nothing. New head gasket and NO it's not put in wrong on this engine, can only fit one way. And there was nothing wrong with the old one anyway. Head has been hot bathed, valves and sets resurfaced, and head shaved.007. The engine is malti-port injected, intake has been cleaned, new EGR system parts. Fan is installed correct. Is not burning coolant, engine only uses 1 liter of oil in 6000klm driving emty, and 1liter in three tanks of fuel when pulling 17ft trailer loaded. No coolant in oil. Never has been. Engine has never been rebuilt, this problem started at 286,000km and the truck now has 458,000 on it. And only one owner, me. About the engine running lean, not sure about that, being fuel injected, but I do have another truck, with the same engine, but a year newer, with only 292,000km on it, picked up 100$ after it hit a power pole, thinking of taking the (chip) out of that one and puting it in my truck. But my truck has always been a turn key runner, one crank and it starts. I also have put in new gear to gear timing set, and the timing is set at spec. About the belt slipping, only one belt for all with tensioner, and yes I did replace that some time ago. And ther is NO A/C.
3inch exhaust-front to back, high flow muffler, all good.[/Quote:e749dd4dda]

Wrong signal from O2 sensors at closed loop/partial clogged injectors and low fuel pressure will make it run lean.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 7:48 AM
Tiny
DBABYN
  • MEMBER
New hose's with coil wire in bottom hose, new water pump, had three different new thermostats, (2-194deg-stock setting and even 1-185deg) now running with nothing. New head gasket and NO it's not put in wrong on this engine, can only fit one way. And there was nothing wrong with the old one anyway. Head has been hot bathed, valves and sets resurfaced, and head shaved.007. The engine is malti-port injected, intake has been cleaned, new EGR system parts. Fan is installed correct. Is not burning coolant, engine only uses 1 liter of oil in 6000klm driving emty, and 1liter in three tanks of fuel when pulling 17ft trailer loaded. No coolant in oil. Never has been. Engine has never been rebuilt, this problem started at 286,000km and the truck now has 458,000 on it. And only one owner, me. About the engine running lean, not sure about that, being fuel injected, but I do have another truck, with the same engine, but a year newer, with only 292,000km on it, picked up 100$ after it hit a power pole, thinking of taking the (chip) out of that one and puting it in my truck. But my truck has always been a turn key runner, one crank and it starts. I also have put in new gear to gear timing set, and the timing is set at spec. About the belt slipping, only one belt for all with tensioner, and yes I did replace that some time ago. And ther is NO A/C.
3inch exhaust-front to back, high flow muffler, all good.[/Quote:2fc7e0516c]

Wrong signal from O2 sensors at closed loop/partial clogged injectors and low fuel pressure will make it run lean.[/Quote:2fc7e0516c]

O2 sensors? There is three of them, will need to pay for that one to be diagnostic coded, but do have a home hand held one, should give that a try again, injectors have been replaced, new fuel pumps last fall( first time they messed up after 450,000km, not bad don't you think?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 1:29 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides