How to change ignition switch?

Tiny
ALBERT ARTHUR
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Broke key in the assembly got the key out, now extra key wouldn't turn the ignition forward, how to remove lock assembly
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 5:17 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi albert arthur,

Sorry to say that you need to turn the key to start position before the cylinder can be removed.

Check for any key bits still left inside key cylinder that is getting ijn the way. You might have to consider putting back the broken pieces to turn the key.

LOCK CYLINDER (FUNCTIONAL)
Removal & Installation
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Position steering wheel half way between upper and lower tilt stops. Remove steering wheel. Roll back shift lever seal from upper and lower steering column trim covers. Remove tilt wheel lever. Remove lower steering column trim cover. Remove screws retaining upper trim cover. Lift trim cover to gain access to lock cylinder access hole.
2. Hold ignition switch in START position. Using a bent tip awl, push on lock cylinder retaining pin. Release ignition switch to RUN position, and pull lock cylinder set from lock module assembly. See Fig.
3. To install, insert key into lock cylinder and turn to RUN position. Ensure sector in lock module assembly is in RUN position. Insert lock cylinder into lock module. Align locking and positioning tabs with slots in lock module assembly, and press lock cylinder into position. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
ARIESRAM66
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,000 MILES
Sporadically when I try to start my 95 Suburban, I crank the key over and get no power whatsoever. No dash lights, no clock, nothing. The battery is good and the starter has tested good. If I jam the key in the ignition and wiggle it around for a while I then get power back and the truck will start. Could the problem be the ignition switch and/or the ignition lock column?
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Does the key have a resistor on the side of it?
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARIESRAM66
  • MEMBER
No. It's just a regular key.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Continuity test of the ignition switch should be done, also check the switch hold down screws, there are two of them, they are 5/16th heads, see if it's loose.
Ignition & Turn/Hazard Switches 1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect Black 48-pin steering column harness-to-main harness connector under instrument panel. See wiring diagram in appropriate WIRING DIAGRAM article. 2. Connector terminals represented in wiring diagram (identified by a letter/number combination) match connector terminals of 48-pin connector illustrated. See Fig. 1 . 3. Connect one ohmmeter lead to power supply terminal of switch side of 48-pin connector. Connect other ohmmeter lead to appropriate terminal of 48-pin connector according to selected switch position. If continuity does not exist for selected switch position, problem is open in that circuit between 48-pin connector and switch, or faulty switch.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_suba_2.jpg

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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLONDZRULE
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I have a 94 chevy suburban c1500 and I have replaced the ignition switch and the ignition and it starts fine but when I turn the ignition off everything stays on as if the ignition is still on what could be causing this?
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Recheck the ignition switch cylinder lock-could be offset
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLONDZRULE
  • MEMBER
What do you mean offset
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TROMBONEKING
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Electrical problem
1993 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

How to change a Ignition Switch
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Lower the steering column.
3. Remove the washer head screw and the hexagon nut.
4. Disconnect the dimmer switch assembly from the rod.
5. Unfasten the dimmer and ignition switch mounting stud.
6. Seperate the ignition switch from the actuator rod.
7. Unplug the ignition switch electrical connection and remove the switch.

To install:

The new ignition switch will come in the OFF-LOCK position. Once the switch is assembled on the column, remove the plastic pin from the switch. If you are installing the old switch, make sure it is in the OFF-LOCK position.

8. Attach the switch to the actuator rod.
9. Move the switch slider to the extreme left position, then move the slider one detent right to the OFF-LOCK position. Install the dimmer switch mounting stud and tighten to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
10. Attach the dimmer switch to the rod, then install the washer head screw and hexagon nut. Do not fully tighten at this time.
11. Place a 3 / 32 inch drill bit in the hole on the dimmer switch. Position the switch on the column and push against the rod to eliminate all lash.
12. Install the switch and tighten the screw and nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
13. Attach the switch electrical connection.
14. Raise and attach the steering column.
15. Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper switch operation.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NEIL LEPPAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Hey there. Today I pulled away from a parking spot and as I turned a corner the engine shut off. It would not restart. When I turn the key I did not get any lights on the dash. When I turn it to crank I get nothing, I cannot even hear the solenoid. Also the power windows wont go up. It is as if the key is doing absolutely nothing when I turn it. When it happened I was winding down three windows at the same time and had the air conditioner on, did I blow a fuse? Or is there something wrong with the ignition?
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Running down three windows at once can be considered normal, so the circuit is designed to handle that. Even if a fuse did blow, it should not cause everything to be dead. A better suspect is to follow the smaller positive battery wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Most vehicles had an under-hood fuse box by 1991 so I am guessing yours does too. If not, I will have to dig up a wiring diagram.

Given the age of the vehicle, also follow the smaller negative battery wire to the body and be sure that one is tight and not rusty.

By the way, since power windows are considered a safety system, they are protected by an auto-resetting thermal circuit breaker. Once they cool down for up to a minute, they will reset, but if they have tripped numerous times they can develop arced contacts and prevent proper circuit operation. The windows are the only system that would be affected.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NEIL LEPPAN
  • MEMBER
Thanks caradiodoc. I followed the positive lead to alternator and then from there it lead me to a bigger loom that seemed like it was plugged into the firewall. When I removed the cover on the little black box mounted on the firewall (close to steering column) there appeared to be a tar like substance under the plug. Is this melted plastic from an electrical short? Or is it some kind of sealant? There also does not appear to be a fuse box under the hood.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Could you take a picture of that "tar-like substance" and upload it to us please? It could be a sealant and it could also be a sign of something melted. Does anything smell melted? Do any wires or the plastic look melted?

The fuse box my colleague mentioned is usually close to the battery.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Are you saying everything is dead electrically? You might still have only a fuse box inside. Regardless, poke around on all of the fuses with a test light to see if there's 12 volts there. If there is, tell me exactly what works and what doesn't. In particular, does the "Battery" light on the dash turn on when you turn the ignition switch to "run".
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CE FERRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
While driving, my truck cuts off as if I turned it off with the key. I attempt to restart my truck but nothing happens, I mean nothing, no panel lights no buzzing, all gages read zero but I do have interior domes lights, head lights and break lights. If I leave the key lock in run eventually the panel lights come on and the gages register again then I can start my truck and drive on, only for this to repeat itself over again at random times; sometimes right after I restart my truck. I want to believe its my ignition switch but other people I've talked to says a faulty ignition switch won't turn my truck off like this but it will prevent my truck from starting.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER
A ignition switch absolutely can cause this. Also check the battery connections, some have 2 positive cables to the positive terminal and there is a lead spacer inbetween them that melts causing one cable to lose power. Id check that first. Also look for fusible links at firewall or at starter motor.(These are orange rubbery wires that can melt on the inside, lightly tug on them and see if they seperate. Im sure you will find your problem in these areas. Get back to us
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAUSTINMD
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 107,000 MILES
My '93 Suburban has a tilt wheel. Sometimes, nothing happens when the ignition switch is turned. If you either move the tilt wheel to a new position of tilt, or lift the steering wheel up slightly (the tilt has a little play in it), then the engine will crank and start fine.

This is an old truck and I plan to get rid of it in less than a year and obviously don't want to put any more money than necessary into repairs. My question is, what is wrong with the ignition, can I fix it myself, if a shop fixes it - how much would you estimate the repair, and is this likely to fail completely in the near future and leave me stranded somewhere?

Thanks!
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
The loose tilt part and the ignition rack are more then likely your problem. It does require a steering wheel puller and a lock plate tool and tilt pin tool. It can take a couple of hours or better to replace it. See with the tilt section loose the pushrod from the ignition lock cylinder to the ignition switch are not in sequence, that is why if you lift the wheel you put it in better alignment.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAUSTINMD
  • MEMBER
Will this progress to the point where it won't start or can I "live with it" 'til I dispose of the truck in a year?
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:10 PM (Merged)

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