Engine has rough idle and lack power?

Tiny
EMPTYMINDEDLY8
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 CHEVROLET S-10
I just bought this truck thinking that it was going to just need a fuel filter changed on it since the previous owner said that he ran all the fuel out of it once and that it'd ben idleing rough ever since. But I think that its going to be more than that. Because while its idleing and I give it gas the oil pressure goes back up with the rpm. And the closer it gets to operating temp the better it does. BUt the moment you try to drive it anywhere you have to do some kind of irish jig with the cluth and gas pedal just to make it go. And I'v noticed that it sputters real bad and lacks power. While driving it wants to jerk you forward and backward unless I barely hold the clutch in for a second and then its ok. And when I get in the higher rpm I hear a sound up front on the passenger side. Almost reminds me of a power steering pump groaning when you turn the wheel all the way
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have the same problem?
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No
Wednesday, December 30th, 2009 AT 2:19 AM

30 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Hi, I'd start with an overall tune-up. Any trouble codes? Use a gage and check fuel pressure. If your TBI does the injector/s spray pattern look ok, engine idling? A spray pattern, doesn't mean the pressure is ok. If you have a tranny or clutch issue,

lets go over this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2009 AT 11:38 AM
Tiny
LEROY PRICE
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 2.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 40,000 MILES
Truck starts good idles fine, sputters and misses under power.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The first thing I need you to do is check for diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a link that explains how to retrieve them. You don't need a scan tool. All that is needed is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip.

______________________

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

_____________________

Let me know what you find. Also, let me know if there is any smoke from the exhaust, odd smells, anything you can think of that could help me diagnose what might be happening.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HIVOLTGE20
  • MEMBER
  • 1987 CHEVROLET S-10
Engine Performance problem
1987 Chevy S-10 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual

2.8 litre loading up on idle but has no more power after 1/4 - 1/2 throttle. The same power matted on the floor as 1/4 throttle. U can press the peddle to the floor and start backing off and from 1/2 to 1/4 throttle it makes power. It really acts like it is sort of floodin I guess, just notta lotta smoke from the tailpipe if any.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check your fuel pressure, but change your fuel filter first. It may be paritally plugged then cross A & B on the aldl and see if there is any codes. Come back to the site here an dlook under obd 1 on trouble codes.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIREMCD
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 160,000 MILES
I have a 1986 Chevy S-10 Pickup truck with a 2 wheel drive V-6 Fuel injected 2.8 liter engine. It has an automatic transmission. Truck has 160,000 miles. Engine and
transmission are origional.
The truck has no pick up when in drive and performs at
about half of what you would expect power-wise on the road.
Top speed is about 55, and even then, only on a long straightaway. Start to go up hill at all, or to suddenly
accelerate from a full stop, and the engine coughs and rapid deceleration occurs.
This problem persists, and will not go away.
A professional mechanic shop is currently stumped, after having it for 10 days.
I am about to get it back because I want to get it
running. They have done no work on it.
When in Park, the engine will run very well, and when the gas pedal is held to the floor, it sounds and runs exactly like it should.
The transmission does not show any signs of trouble whatsover, and shifts in and out of all gears normally, and engages normally.
Only in Drive like I described, does the problem show itself. There is no sound from the engine indicating a bad cylander. All 6 spark plugs have been changed and correctly gapped, as well as new spark plug wires.
Distributor cap and rotor have been pulled, and inspected, are like new. While I had them off, I replaced the ignition module underneath the rotor. There are no cut or damaged wires visible under the hood, and all vacuum lines are attached and going where they should. Timing has been tested, is working fine, and is set at 15 degrees past normal settings. Lastly, old gas is not possible, it was nearly empty and then refueled with 15 gallons of non-ethanol just 4 weeks ago.
Any ideas? Thanks for reading!
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MEMBER
I am giving you a diagnostic walk through for your situation that will go through the most likely issues causing your problem. When you get to the part about pulling trouble codes. you can go to Auto Zone or Advance Auto and they will pull them for free.
Just follow this link;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CAMAROMAN17
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 127,000 MILES
I have a 1985 S-10 with the carburetated 2.8l v6 with 127,000 miles. The problem I have is that the engine is missing and knocking when under load. It idles fairly well but as soon as you start driving it starts missing and lacks power especially as you get to higher speeds. It is topping out at about 35 mph and starts to miss, knock, and buck. Timing is perfect at 8 degrees, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, newer plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, head gaskets, and intake gaskets. All spark plugs are getting spark and look fine when pulled. It also has a newer CAT and has been sea foamed. All the plugs are gapped correctly, no water in distributor, no cuts on any wires, firing order correct, no fuel leaks, fuel pump is pumping fine. I am out of ideas and with so many things being done recently im not sure what else is left.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CAMAROMAN17
  • MEMBER
This doesnt realy help me too much because I dont have fuel injectors, oxygen sensors, throttle position sensor, IAC valve, MAF. It has a new mechanical fuel pump so it has good pressure, the EGR valve is newer, all vacumme hoses are newer and all the ignition parts are newer. So pretty much everything on here my vehicle is not equipped with or has been very recently replaced.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it-
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-1
Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LANKFORDSOFI
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 180,000 MILES
84 chevy s10 2.8 eng has gargling sounds in the carb after I start it and give it gas as well as loses power?
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Check to make sure there is enough fuel pressure to it. Also, check fuel volume to it.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE H R
  • EXPERT
Check the carb as it is getting too much gas. The float may be out of adjustment letting more fuel into the system. You should have a rochester carb on it. With the float out of adjustment the girgling sound is the excessive fuel that is left over when the intake valve closes and from the heat. The lack of power is the engine running too rich. Another thing that can do something like you are saying is the timing so have it checked but do think it is the carb float.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MCLOVIN280ZX
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 CHEVROLET S-10
Have changed spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel line, cleaned carbuerator, changed air cleaner, oil change, doesn't know why it keeps bogging down and cutting off going down the road around 40 mph and up
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Have you checked the carburator base gasket? It should have a heat grid in it and when this grid goes bad or melts down the truck won't run very good. So with the air cleaner off have a flashlight and upen the throttle and look down inside and see if it has a heat grid and if so does it look either burnt or missing some of the grid?
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MCLOVIN280ZX
  • MEMBER
Yeah we've replaced that first
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok good eliminates that then. Next question have you checked the cat?
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BKM97423
  • MEMBER
  • 1983 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 2.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 90,000 MILES
I let a friend look at my engine and he said a vacuum line was disconnected. It fixed the choke problem as it was a cold start in the mornings and the choke would never idle down. But when I get on the hwy and try to accelerate it's like I am letting off the gas and it will not over 30-40 mph and it surges causing it to jerk back and forth real bad. Sometimes when I let it cool down and drive it again it does not do it, but it seems to have gotten worse. I think this guy sabotaged my vehicle. I have had it for about 9 months and never had any problems until he messed with it. Please help me. Can you send me a diagram of vacuum lines in a 83 S10 Blazer 4wd 2.8 LTR engine 5 speed manual transmission? Thanks
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

I attached 3 pictures below of the vacuum system. They are for federal emissions. California is different, so if that is where you are located, let me know.

Now, when the engine is warm, remove the top of the air filter housing. Is the choke open or closed? Also, some of these had a vacuum pull off for the choke, I need to see yours to know if it does. If you can upload a pic of it, that would help me.

Last, confirm that the vacuum advance on the distributor isn't disconnected.

Let me know if any of this helps and what you find.

Joe
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BKM97423
  • MEMBER
I don't know where any of that stuff your asking me about is, but I took some pictures fr you. I push on the gas and it just wont go. No power at all.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:36 AM (Merged)

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