1. Block the wheels, place transaxle in "Neutral" position and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the air cleaner intake duct.
3. Remove the torque strut to engine bracket bolts and swing the strut aside. Place the bolt back into the passenger side bracket.
4. Using a pry bar in the passenger side bracket rotate the engine forward and secure it in this position. To secure the engine in the rotated engine position, it will requre connecting a ratchet strap to the engine and to the frame or radiator core support.
5. Reverse the procedure when you have completed the task that required rotating the engine. Place the transaxle in "Park", and torque the strut to engine bracket bolts to 35 ft lbs.
MY QUESTION IS, THIS SEEMS TO SIMPLE TO ROTATE THE ENGINE, I HAVE NEVER DONE ANYTHING LIKE THIS BEFORE, IN REGARD TO ROTATING AN ENGINE, AND CAN'T IMAGINE THIS ENGINE WILL JUST ROTATE AFTER REMOVING TWO BOLTS, PLACING A PRY BAR TO MOVE IT, AND SECURING IT WITH A RACHET STRAP.
WHAT ABOUT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, ALL THE HARD COMPRESSION LINES, THE ENGINE APPEARS LIKE I WOULD NEED TO REMOVE 10-20 ITEMS BEFORE IT WOULD BE ABLE TO ROTATE FREELY. AM I WRONG?
CAN YOU TELL ME THE CORRECT PROCEDURE TO ROTATE THIS ENGINE SO I CAN GET TO THE REAR PLUGS PLEASE.
THE CAR HAS FAILED STATE INSPECTION (NJ) BECAUSE THE EGR VALVE IS NOT GETTING ENOUGH AIR FLOW. THAT IS WHAT THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT CODE HAS SHOWN. I HAVE REPLACED THE EGR 4 TIMES ALREADY IN THE LAST YEAR, EACH TIME THE NEW EGR WORKS FOR ABOUT 300 MILES, IT ALSO CLEARS THE COMPUTER CODE AFTER 50 MILES, THEN WITHIN 300 OR SO MILES COMES BACK ON. STATE INSPECTION SIMPLY SEES THE ERROR CODE AND FAILS THE CAR WITHOUT CHECKING THE ACTUAL EMMISIONS.
I WANT TO CHANGE THE PLUGS AND WIRES, THEY HAVE NEVER BEEN CHANGED, MY DAD GAVE ME THE CAR, AND HE SAID HE NEVER CHANGED THE PLUGS OR WIRES. THE CAR RUNS FINE, BUT MAYBE THE PLUGS NEED REPLACEING AND THIS WILL KEEP THE EGR CLEANER FOR LONGER.
have the same problem?
Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 1:25 PM