2002 Chevy Impala Advice needed desperately!

Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 108,000 MILES
I have replaced a starter, all spark plugs and cables, battery, alternator, throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, catalytic converter, 02 sensors and a plethora of other items and my car continues to stall out several times a day (highway, city driving, even when stopped).

As of last night the car stalled out completely on the highway almost killing my girlfriend and I as I lost all power steering and just barley got the car off the road. We also smelled a strong mixture of smoke and gasoline (very sulfur-like) and noticed a hint of smoke coming from the engine bay.

After a few minutes the struggling car finally started back up. This morning as I get ready to leave for work the car was struggling for several minutes horribly before finally turning on and once again producing the same sulfur-like smell.

I have my oil changes regularly, transmission flushes, engine flushes, and coolant system flushes whenver needed so I stay very much on top of my regular maintenance schedule.

PLEASE HELP! (By the way, no check engine light).
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 8:27 AM

23 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Check fuel pressure regulator pull vacuum hose off if fuel present replace reg.
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 8:45 AM
Tiny
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The car is now in the shop and the mechanic just told me 2 hours ago that he was going to check fuel pressure first. Hopefully this solves the problem!

Thanks!
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 9:27 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Sounds like you have a good Tech. Looking at car.
Let me know what he finds
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 9:39 AM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
  • MEMBER
The tech checked the fuel pump and fuel pressure and both were working perfectly. The fuel filter was EXTREMELY clogged and replaced. The car ran great all night (although the steering felt a little tighter then usual). My area had some significant snow this morning so I decided to warm it up early. The car did not turn on the first three tries. On the fourth try the car did turn on but was idling very rough (boucing rpms constantly from 500 - 2000 and still NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT).

After a minute the engine calmed down and sounded normal and the rpm's settled around 700-800. I allowed the car to run for 15 minutes to bring the engine up to temperature (its 20 degrees right now outside) before leaving for work. Needless to say, the car stalled out twice on the way (both times while going down hill).

Any more advice before this vehicle becomes my casket?
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Wednesday, January 28th, 2009 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Would clean MAF and verify EGR operation. Maf will cause idle swinge and stalling. EGR will stall on decelerationj if not closing.
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Wednesday, January 28th, 2009 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
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MAF was replaced two weeks ago along with the Throttle position sensor.
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Wednesday, January 28th, 2009 AT 11:18 AM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
I have noticed that my steering has gotten significantly stiffer, especially when coming to a stop or when stopped altogether.

Right now I am experiencing the shutting off moreso when the car is sitting idle.

Example: The car turned on and drove great all day yesterday yet when I drove to my girlfriends job the car stalled out as soon as I parked. It then stalled as I was leaving a parking space at a local gas station.

I am seriously running out of money.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Did you verify EGR operation? That will cause stalling and idle swings. Steering does it get stif as temp drops? Has fluid ever been changed? I ask because hydraulic fluid will absorb moisture as it ages.
Is your Tech useing a diagnostic scanner? Not code reader a scan tool that can check all computer controled items? That is what must be done cause all you are doing is throwing parts at it.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
  • MEMBER
The power steering fluid has never been changed as far as I know and the temperature in my area has been in the 20's for the last two weeks or so.

I am contemplating cleaning my IAC valve but unsure of what to use to do so. Would CRC MAF cleaner work?

I will try and schedule an appointment to have a serious diagnostic done early next week and let you know what I find out.

Thanks for everything thus far.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:12 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Yes cleaning is good idea and MAF cleaner is good.
Get passage ways and pentile and while in area clean throttle body open ues tooth brush and cleaner.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
DVCRPM
  • MEMBER
Sounds like vaporlock have you changed the fuel and air filters lately?
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Sunday, February 1st, 2009 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
DVCRPM
  • MEMBER
Sounds like vaporlock have you changed the fuel and air filters lately?[/Quote:86adc4ecc6] And possibly cat converter.
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Sunday, February 1st, 2009 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
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The catalytic converter is only three months old. The fuel filter is only 5 days old and the air filter is less than 2 months old.

Any other ideas?
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Sunday, February 1st, 2009 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
  • MEMBER
BTW: As I was driving Saturday morning the car died (as usual) several times on the way to my father's house. I noticed a blinking check engine light but before I had the chance to get to an Autozone to have it scanned the car turned off several more times and the blinking light never came back on.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
I getting more inclined to suspect the PCM. You have weird stuff then it gets better everything checkes out new parts work for a few days. An electronic component is only thing that can do that. Mechanical part when it breaks it stays broke.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 2:57 PM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
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I am trying my best to stay positive. How would a faulty PCM be diagnosed?
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
That's the rub there isn't maybe an elecronic geek could figure out. But I go on 40 yrs experience and when you have a car like yours it is alikely course. You can't rely on PCM to diagnosis as in your case. Light on, no light check for codes none. All those parts you would think the odds of geating it right would have played by now.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 3:21 PM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
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I am constantly being told to replace the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator but because I have seen SECURITY, TRAC OFF, SERVICE TRAC SYSTEM lights come on right before the car turns off I am thinking more towards the car's computer as well.

Pep Boys has a $100 total system/sensor scan. Should I invest in that first considering I already own my own scantool?
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
This is what I suggested last Friday your scaner only reads codes. This test is with a diagonist scan tool. It interfaces with PCM checks all sensors, actuators, injestors all components. This should help determine if PCM is faulty.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
GEOPOCALYPSE3000
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I am finally able to pull a code from my OBD-II and it is P0103 - MAF High circuit input. My only problem is that the MAF was replaced just shy of a month ago.
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 7:01 AM

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