1984 Chevy Corvette horns not working

Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 CHEVROLET CORVETTE
Electrical problem
1984 Chevy Corvette V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 156k miles

horns will not work. No power at horn. Should I have power at plug that connects to horns? I used a test light but did not show any power. I straight wired directly from battery to horns and that worked. I replaced relay, still not working. I pulled steering wheel and all the componets looked like they were in working order. Do not know what else to do or what or how to test for what do not know how current flows from or to what. Any suggestions would be very appreciated. I have not ran accross any wiring diagrams that are really that helpful or trouble shooting what to do.
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Monday, October 13th, 2008 AT 4:28 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello, it looks like there is a fuse also, 15A, labeled under Ctsy/Clk. Check that and see. Also, from the other attached pics make sure you have the correct relay. Since the horn does work with 12v right from the battery, we know that is good. Check this and let us know.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Horn_1_1.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Horn_2_1.gif




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Horn_3_1.jpg

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Monday, October 13th, 2008 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your response to my problem.
In regard to your question about the 15amp fuse and relay.
I did check the 15amp fuse that is located beside the relay that is in the middle of the instrument panel and it looked good.
I also called the chev dealership about the relay to make sure I had the correct one. They confirmed the part number that was on the relay that I took out.
I bought the relay from a parts house assuming that it is the correct one that I told them that it was for a 84 corvette, now you have me wondering if mabey I should go to the dealership and purchase their relay and know for sure it is the right one. There seemed to be a slight difference in the shape of the prongs after thinking about it from the one I took out and the one I bought from the parts store. I wonder if that would make a difference.
I checked the relay terminal to see if it was hot when I removed the relay with a test light ( not sure if I did it right or not) I just stuck the prong of the test light into each lead of the socket but got no indication that it was hot. I was thinking that the relay sent power to the horns.
I would appreciate any information you may have.

Thank You
James
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Monday, October 13th, 2008 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
I would take a test light and follow the horn button wire and track it down and see where the power is being lost. First are you getting power to the horn relay? The way a relay works it it has continuous power and switched power the horn button provides the switched power. Some where in the circuit the power it being lost. So use your test light and check for power at the relay first and go from there.
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Monday, October 13th, 2008 AT 10:25 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
In regard to your last advise. You were talking about starting with the relay to see if I had power there and then work back from there. Doe's the power come to the relay first? Do I then go into the steering column if the relay shows no power? Will any of the three prongs light up on my relay plug when touched with the probe if I have power to the plug for the relay? What do I check in the steering column if no power to relay?

Thank You
James
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Wednesday, October 15th, 2008 AT 11:54 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Yes on wire has constant power need to know it that power is there.
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Wednesday, October 15th, 2008 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your response about my horn problem but unfortunatly for me I guess I am not getting the information I need with your one sentence answers to my questions.

Sorry for the trouble
James
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Thursday, October 16th, 2008 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
So use a test light or voltmeter and check all the wires at the ralay and make sure one has power when you push the horn button. Let me know what you find ok.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_103372_1.jpg

Here is what you are looking for one wire has power when you push the horn button.
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Thursday, October 16th, 2008 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello James
We apologize for not providing the answers you need. Let's go over what we have looked at again, plus I was able to find another wiring diagram.
You don't have any horn when you press at the steering wheel. According to the wiring diagram you have a low and a high pitch horn.
You said when you run a wire from the battery to the horns, they work. That means the horns are good.
You will not have current to the ends of the horn wire unless the horn is pressed inside the car. It makes contact there, goes through the relay to the horn. There is a hot circuit from the fuse through the relay, to the steering wheel and the horn switch completes it back to the relay to the horns.
If it were me, I would take an ohm meter, remove the fuse, #40 I believe it was, and check the fuse for continuity. If that is good then put it back. Sometimes a fuse can look okay, but not be. I think it is okay since the other items in the circuit are working. But let's be safe and check it. Next, it looks like the pink wire with a white tracer is hot at all times to the relay from that fuse. Pull the relay and make sure it is hot. The positive end of the DC volt meter will go to that wire and put the black ground wire on a metal part of the car. It should read 12volts.
As for the horn switch in the steering wheel, it appears that the black wire going there is hot. If possible send a pic of the steering wheel horn area if you are not sure how it works there. I don't have a diagram showing me that. If you are able to jump the switch right there and close it, the circuit should close and the horn work. That would mean it is not working at the relay.
As for the relay area. I don't have a diagram of the relay itself. Still looking. Having some computer problems so will continue to look. However, if it were me I would try this. I would remove the relay. You know it is hot from the pink/white tracer and the hot to the horn is dark green. If it were me I would take a wire and jump it from the pink/white tracer right to the dark green. The problem is I am not sure if the relay also acts as a ground. Now if the horn works, then you know it is either the relay or the horn switch at the steering wheel. If you got 12 volts at the relay from the steering wheel when you press the horn, then you know it is the relay. If you press the horn and do not get 12v at the relay, that black wire, then you know it's the horn switch.
Now PLEASE understand. I don't want to be responsible for shorting out anything on your car. So if you do this, please accept the responsibility. I am telling you what I would do on my vehicle that I was able to see, tough, feel and look at and be responsible for. We are not there to see what it looks like etc. I will continue to look for the info on the relay. That should tell us what's hot etc if I can find it.
Do the checks that are safe for now, testing voltage at the different locations etc unless you want to try that last one. Did you ever replace the relay with a dealer one since the prongs were different?
Okay, with the pic- hope this is better of what you need. Let us know what all you did from this and if this helps so we know where to go from here.
Again, we apologize for not providing a complete answer to your satisfaction. It was not meant that way. Please understand we deal with thousands of people with numerous levels of experience. It is really hard not to offend someone. Some that have lots of knowledge may get offended if we provide too much and they take it as though we don't think they have any knowledge. The same the other way, not enough causes problems. Also, some are stronger in say, electrical areas but not in the mechanical side. So when we go into detail in one area that offends, but not in the other they need more.
Thanks James, let us know what you find.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Horn_4_1.jpg

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Thursday, October 16th, 2008 AT 9:50 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
To: ImpalaSS

Thank you so very much for your information on trying to correct my horn problems. I can tell that you put alot into this and I just wanted to commend you on your input.
I know you guys are very busy and you really do a great job. I don't feel that I am an expert in any field, that is why I came to you with my questions and even if I thought I was I would take that into consideration for the help that you are giving me. I am not the least offended by all the information you can give me about a problem and will let you know right up front the next time. Again thank you so very much. I think all the info. You have given me will help very much in trobleshooting this problem. I will for sure let you know what I find and get back to you on it.

Have a great weekend
James
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Friday, October 17th, 2008 AT 2:37 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
ImpalaSS

Thanks again so much for all your help. Just letting you know the first thing I checked was the 15amp fuse. I replaced it even though it looked fine. I didn't see any break in the fuse link itself but put a new one in and the horns work fine. I would never have solved this problem without your help. Again much thanks.

James
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Saturday, October 18th, 2008 AT 3:09 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello James

Thats great it is working. One of the rules of troubleshooting is to always start with the first step....fuses depending on the problem of course and work your way from there. They are hard to see sometimes and can blow and you can not see it. For the cost, as you did, a swap is great. If you have an Ohm meter, a quick check to both ends will tell you also.
You are very welcome. We thank you for using 2carpros.
Have a great day and enjoy driving that corvette around!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_corvette_1.jpg

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Saturday, October 18th, 2008 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
ImpalaSS

Hi and thank you again. I was quite surprsed again that this could be something so simple but without your knowledge a rookie like me would never have figured it out.
If I check both ends of a fuse with a ohm meter what reading should I have if good or bad?
In the future when I encounter a problem and come to you guys is there any way that I can directly get help from you? One last thing, where do I go to give you a very good rating?

Thanks Again
James
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Tuesday, October 21st, 2008 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello James

You are very welcome. This time it was simple. Sometimes no. Rookie.....no....you did just fine.

I am not sure what type of meter you have, but mine when checking continuity I can select where it has an audible tone. That way as I check things I can keep my eyes on what I am doing and when it is good, I hear a tone. One, you never have power on when doing this. I gave you several pics to show you what I mean. Pic 1 I select the audible tone for continuity checks. Pic 2, I put my test leads together and I should hear a tone. Pic 3, when I put a lead on each end of the fuse, if the fuse is good, I will hear a tone. If I do not hear a tone, fuse is broken since the current can not move from one test lead, through the fuse to the other test lead.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_12.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_2_8.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_3_4.jpg



You can email me at impalas@2carpros.com and let me know before you send something on the 2carpros web and then we will take it from there. Please remember though, 2carpros has great mechanics working here. As any business, some are more specialized in some area than others. We all work together as a team to ensure the folks that send us questions are taken care of with the best information possible. A really great bunch of folks. We definitely help each other. You know what they say, 2 heads are better than one. Feel free to drop me a line though before you ever submit anything and again, we will take it from there.

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Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008 AT 9:59 PM
Tiny
JBIRD702
  • MEMBER
ImpalaSS

Thank you for the information on the test meter about checking for a problem with the fuse. I will contact you again when I have a problem and I am sure that I will have some more. The corvette I have I consider to be a project car that I bought from someone that I am in the process of getting back to the original condition. I have a way to go but getting there. Thanks again for all your help with everything and I hope you have a great weekend.

James
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Friday, October 24th, 2008 AT 9:14 AM

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