1990 Chevy Cheyenne How to replace and where is the Ignitio

Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • 1990 CHEVROLET CHEYENNE

Electrical problem
1990 Chevy Cheyenne 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 210500 miles

If we turn the key, dash lights come on, but no clicking sound or anything.
That has been the scene for days now.

When we bought the truck the ignition cylinder (what you put the key into) could be pulled right out of the steering column, but when slid back in it still started and ran fine.

Then one day, the truck seemed to be shorting out without warning, and would run fine to one place and then not start again for a few minutes. This repeated for a couple of days until it just wouldnt start at all. (I did try to install a cd player at the time, but later found it wasnt the cd player)

I found the distributor cap had lots of interior corrosion and the rotor was very dirty/rusty. So I replaced them. But still nothing, and then the trucks battery ran dry, so we had to recharge it. Not sure why it ran dry, maybe power being drawn from somewhere else?

But the plastic gear wheels for the ignition switch inside also look worn out. You can see their quality since the ignition cylinder slides right out.

Anyways, I bought a Multimeter, In-Line Spark Tester, Code Reader, spark plug wires, spark plugs, and ignition coil next.

The Code Reader continously gave a reading of 12, or system pass.

So now, I am confused, the manual says to remove the column shroud halves (which there are no screws in the plastic shrouds so no way to remove them) and then it says to remove the column-to-dash attaching bolts and slowly lower the steerting column, but it only lowers about an inch.

And after all of that you should be able to reach the ignition switch, but obviously I am missing something. Where should the ignition switch be?

Shouldnt it be inside the steering column after removing the steering wheel?

Doesnt repl;acing the ignition switch require a steering wheel puller and GM lock plate compressor?

Also, just found a fuse that two of the five plug ends are burnt. Its a black case 1in by 1in by 1in. I heard it start clicking after lowering the steering column and if you would push on the steering wheel the fuse would start clicking.

The case says: HELLA 12V - Its a relay.
4RD
960388-02
25520198
Made in USA

HELP ME GUYS! THANKS!

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Saturday, January 16th, 2010 AT 4:15 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Hi AlaskaForever2010, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Let me try to help this is what one of my auto references says on how to remove the ignition switch

Disconnect battery ground cable.
Carefully loosen attaching bolts, then lower steering column.
Place ignition switch into the Lock position. If the lock cylinder has been removed, the actuating rod to the switch should be pulled up, until there is a definite stop, then move down one detent. This is the Lock position.
Remove two attaching screws from ignition switch.
Remove ignition switch assembly.
Reverse procedure to install

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Saturday, January 16th, 2010 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

I am still very lost.

The rod moves, but I cannot access the inside of the steering column behind the steering wheel.

And the plastic column shrounds dont come off.

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Saturday, January 16th, 2010 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Is this a 4X4 and also a C1500 or K1500 give more description

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Saturday, January 16th, 2010 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

The truck is a 1990 C1500 W/T V6 2WD.

So I replaced the ignition switch, which is located at the lower part of the steering column. But no change in the truck.

And it was easy to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate cover inside once I had all the tools. But still could not gain access to the plastic ignition gears inside the column.
The ignition switch was on the outside lower part of the steering column, and easy to replace.

But got a chance to inspect the wires inside the steering column and they were fine, none of the wires were damaged or frayed. And got to look at the turn signal switch which was funky since we bought it, and got to see why it was loose.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_removedlockplate_001_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_removedlockplate_002_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_dustintiredandlockplate_008_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_dustintiredandlockplate_007_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_trucksteeringcolumn_001_1.jpg

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Sunday, January 17th, 2010 AT 11:31 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

What is it doing now-will it crank over?

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 12:31 AM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

No, it doesnt make a sound when you turn the ignition key, its been this way for days.

It does not attempt to crank over.

So I replaced the ignition switch, which is located at the lower part of the steering column. But no change in the truck.

And it was easy to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate cover inside once I had all the tools. But still could not gain access to the plastic ignition gears inside the column.
The ignition switch was on the outside lower part of the steering column, and easy to replace.

But got a chance to inspect the wires inside the steering column and they were fine, none of the wires were damaged or frayed. And got to look at the turn signal switch which was funky since we bought it, and got to see why it was loose.

Maybe I wasnt seeing something, going to try again tomorrow.

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 12:38 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

I know how its like in the land of the midnite sun been there -rough country Cantwell-okay have you check the neutral safety switch?

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 12:41 AM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

No, I have not checked the neutral safety switch. This is a manual transmission.

Where would the neutral safety switch be?

Engine lights come on and everything, but nothing else when you turn the ignition.

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 12:52 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Sorry its the clutch switch check by the clutch pedal bracket support-jumper the connector and see what happens

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 12:55 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Be standing by our Mit1 ondemand right now might get restored in a few hours and I'll pull the circuit when it comes up

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 1:03 AM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

Apparently the back up light switch and the neutral safety switch are combined as one in this truck. It says it is mounted in the steering column.

So back to taking the steering column apart again I guess. Took a look at the parts at www.rockauto.com and the switch must be the white plastic piece that fits inside the steering column (behind the steering wheel).

After removing the steering wheel and using a screwdriver and lock plate tool to remove the lock plate, you get to this green plastic piece which pulls off. It has a metal ring all around the back of it for making a connection.

Then there are plastic pieces with a connector plugging in the back of them, this must be the back up light and neutral safety switch pieces.

Problem now is everything says to use a T/W 12085485 connector? So all T/W means is Two Wheel drive and I found the connectors and the switches at www.rockauto.com


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_removedlockplate_002_3.jpg

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Checked with Mit1 it says the clutch/neutral switch is on the clutch pedal bracket, for a C1500 P/U

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

The clutch pedal bracket? But pictures of the part look like the plastic piece inside the steering column.

Getting back to the ignition coil.

The coil has three different test postions:

When I run test 2 on the low scale of the ohmmeter I am supposed
to get a reading of 0.1 Ohms, but I get nothing.

The other two test run perfect. One test runs infinite on the high scale
of the ohmmeter, and the other test stays inbetween 5 and 25 on the high
scale of the ohmmeter.

The book says to replace the coil if ANY of the readings arent perfect.

To remove the coil from truck requires drilling out the two rivets keeping the coil attached to the coil bracket. CRAPPY!

I believe I tested the ignition coil wires wrong though. I didnt test the bear wires inside the connections, I tested the insulated wires instead. And since there are two connections, I am not sure if I test them seperately or together.

It would make sense to bridge the connections together with the multimeter and test them that way. Let me know what you think.

Also, no spark coming from the spark plugs or between the spark plug wire and the distributor cap. Unless my brand new spark plug tester tool isnt working.

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Make sure you're on the right scale of the DVOM or an analog type

To test the coil connect the ohmmeter's two test leads to the coils primary terminals (+ and -). Most coils should read between 0.4 and 2 ohms. Zero resistance would indicate a shorted coil while a high resistance reading would indicate an open coil.

Secondary resistance is measured between the positive (+) terminal and high voltage output terminal. Newer coils with segmented core construction typically read 6,000 to 8,000 ohms, while others can may read as high as 15,000 ohms

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

So if the neutral switch was bad, how do I jump it?

Pictures are below:


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_neutralswitch_001_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/465137_neutralswitch_002_1.jpg

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 10:06 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Make sure the key is off-jumper the wiring connector and attempt to start-did it crank over if not. Disconnect the jumper wire and check for power at the yellow wire which is coming from the ignition switch the other is purple wire goes to the starter solenoid if no power at yellow -recheck the ignition switch

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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

Okay, I have got a ton of free help on here and you guys are all awesome for that. But my patience is wearing thin. My finace is nearing her due date for her pregnacy, we have kittens to find homes for, and I am done spending money on tools for this truck.

I am offering $20 to anyone who can figure this truck out for me.

Now I have disconnected the neutral safety switch, and jumped it with a wire, but no change in the truck. Then the relay mentioned in one of my postings is still unknown (i.E. What is it for), is it a horn relay, a starter motor control relay, what? And I have provided endless pictures while this project continues.

How do I check for power in the solenoid and ignition wires that lead into the connector for the neutral safety switch? Can I test for power with a multimeter?

Its Alaska. Its not very warm out. I dont have a shop.

So, where do I go from here, PLEASE READ THE ABOVE POSTINGS FOR THE LAST FOUR PAGES IF YOU ARE LOST.

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Tuesday, January 19th, 2010 AT 1:14 AM
Tiny
ALASKAFOREVER2010
  • MEMBER

So I have tested the neutral switch, and no amps are running to it.

But could the wires be bad? And if they were, how do I test the individual wires?

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Tuesday, January 19th, 2010 AT 2:24 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Do you have the 2 wires Yellow and Purple on the wiring connector-you said you don't have battery voltage on it when key at start postion on the yellow wire-if ths the case do a continuity test on the yellow wire from the ignition switch and the NSS yellow if the read is infinite the wire is open, if 0 ohms-the ignition switch.

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Tuesday, January 19th, 2010 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Do you have an alarm system, if so check if its spliced into the yellow wire-preventing it from starting

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Tuesday, January 19th, 2010 AT 3:17 PM

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