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2001 Chevy Camaro ABS and Traction Control Inactivates

Tiny
NASTYSS
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET CAMARO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 79,500 MILES
Hi,
I have a 2001 Camaro SS (I am the original owner), with a 5.7L LS1 V-8 Engine, 79,500 miles, 6-speed manual, 4 wheel anti lock brakes (Obviously), and the Traction Control option (Dash switch that turns the system off says "ASR" meaning "Acceleration Slip Regulation, as you know"). I have a unique problem that relates to the ABS and Traction Control systems. These 2 systems are obviously intertwined.
PROBLEM: EVERYTIME I start the car, NO warning lights are on. The very first time I tap the brakes, the brake pedal vibrates (like it does when the ABS activates), and the “Low Trac" warning light comes on (like it does when the Traction Control detects the rear wheels spinning). When I let off the brake pedal, the “Low Trac" light goes out, and the brake pedal stops vibrating. Then, the “ASR OFF" light comes on (Like it does when I deactivate the traction control system using the dash switch), and the “ABS INOP" warning light comes on (Indicating the anti-lock braking system no longer works). The little light on the ASR button goes off as well, and switching the button on or off has no impact or effect. NO OTHER WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON AT THIS POINT OR EVER. I have tested both systems (by skidding the tires, and spinning the rear wheels), and both systems really are inactivated. Although I am not a Mechanic by trade, I am mechanically inclined. I know much more about vehicles and their operation and maintenance than the average person. I have been working on and maintaining my own vehicles for the past 20 years or so. These 2 systems stay inactivated the whole time I am driving the car. The next time I start the car, the 2 dash lights are OFF, and the process starts over again the first time I touch the brake pedal. I am pretty sure BOTH systems do work until I take my foot off of the brake pedal for the first time.
What I have tried: I have looked for blown fuses, and have rebooted the computer several times (by pulling the 2 PCM fuses with the key on, but the car NOT started). Neither of these 2 things fixed the problem. I also asked the car what the heck is going on. I got no response :-(. I also went to an auto parts store that checks your computer for OBD-II trouble codes for free. They said they only do this if the SES light is on, and my issue would not produce any OBD-II codes. I do not know if this is true.
This is a scenario for a real expert. I would appreciate any feedback you could give me, or things to try. I will pay more if you help me fix the problem.
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 10:32 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
You need to have the ABS/Traction control system scanned for codes.A standard OBD-2 reader wont do ABS or other systems. It definitly sounds like the ABS is seeing something wrong, just need to know what it is seeing. Have it scanned and get back to me with any codes
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
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Hello Jack,
Thank you very much for responding so soon! I just got off the phone with Mike, trying to figure out why my Initial donation by credit card did not go through. He told me about your response while I was on the phone with him. I will do my best to locate an ABS scanner or pay for an ABS scan to get the necessary codes you need to further diagnose my problem. It may take a little while (a week or more, hopefully less) with the 4th of July approaching, but I will be back with them ASAP. Thanks again and have a great 4th!
Tom
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 11:46 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
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Ok, you have a good 4th too Tom. Just get back with codes when you can
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
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Hi Jack,

I did a web search on "ABS INOP and ASR OFF", and got lots of results indicating the wheel sensors may just need to be disconnected and cleaned well. Many people said this fixed their problem.

I have not done this yet (need my friend's lift), but I just got back from the Chevy dealer for my SES light on (OBDII code P0430 - Bad Bank 2 Catalytic Converter) which they are covering. They also gave me the ABS codes.

They are :
- C0035 (SM said it means - Left Front)
- C0245 (SM said it means - Hub and Bearing)

The Service Manager told me I wouild have to replace the whole left front Hub and Bearing assembly at about 400 and some $ for just the part. He said the sensor is part of it and I can't just replace the sensor.

Now, any thoughts you are having would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Tom
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2009 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
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The bearing going out and ruining the sensor is a common issue. National Bearing makes a hub assembly that is high quality, but lower priced than the dealer. It is a simple bolt in replacement
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2009 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
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Jack, may I ask A few additional questions please?

1) You agree with the meanings of the 2 codes, and have nothing to add?

2) Just the sensor really cannot be replaced?

3) You don't think there is any possibility that cleaning the sensor might correct the issue, like I found to be the case for some people in my web searches?

4) Do I just do a Web Search on "National Bearing" to find the site where I can find the bearing for my car?

5) MOST IMPORTANT - When I left the dealer, they had obviously cleared the 2 ABS/ASR codes lit on the dashboard. As of now, the 2 lights have NOT come back on, AND I DO CURRENTLY HAVE WORKING ANTI-LOCK BRAKES, WORKING TRACTION CONTROL, AND NO LIGHTS ARE ON. I did not expect this would happen. If the assembly was bad, why would resetting the lights make the 2 systems work again? I HAVE PUT ABOUT 30 MILES ON THE CAR SINCE, AND BOTH SYSTEMS ARE STILL WORKING. Can you please explain why this might happen, or have you seen this occur before? This is making me have a little doubt that the hub is really the culprit.

Thank you,
Tom
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Wednesday, July 15th, 2009 AT 8:06 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
When a bearing begins to go bad, it can create a "noise" or harmonic that will confuse the speed sensor. You can try cleaning it, but if it is the bearing noise causing it, the issue will return. If thebearing was bad enough to contact the sensor, you would have a hard failure, meaning the light would most likely return immediatley, adn the noise would be apparent.I dont see any listings in A/C Delco for the sensor alone, which is common for GM. The National Bearing part # is 513090 it looks to be about $150 cheaper than the A/C Delco part # 20-86. Your best bet would be to drive it until thelight does return, then rescan and compare the odes. Sometimes it may last a while before the same situation occurs that set the original codes
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Wednesday, July 15th, 2009 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
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Thanks Jack,

You definitely fielded all my questions, and I can be pretty thorough with my questions at times.

In the interim, I found a web site that has the GM part "2086" for $269.79, and the National Bearing part "513090" for $162.79. Is the $162 a good price compared to what you found? They also have a Timken part # "513090"(Same part # as National Bearing, weird huh?) For $131.79. I NEVER go for the cheapest part (One gets what one pays for!), But I am wondering if it is actually the same part with a different name on it? You probably are not clairvoyant enough to know that, or are you? :-)

I guess I will wait and see what happens next. I am having NONE of the symptoms that occurred before, like the brake pedal vibrating, or the "Low Trac" light coming on when first braking, nothing. Very strange it seems.
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Thursday, July 16th, 2009 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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I havent used a Timken part before, just the Delco and the National ones, never any issues with those
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Monday, July 20th, 2009 AT 4:32 PM
Tiny
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Hello Jack,
Are you still working there? I finally GOT AROUND TO REPLACING THE left front HUB on 4/8/11. Replacing the HUB did NOT correct the issue. All the research I have done, and the web forums I have visited indicated that the Codes (C0035 & c0245) WILL CLEAR AND THE ISSUE WILL BE RESOLVED AFTER REPLACING THE HUB. So many people have had this exact problem fixed after the HUB replacement. And, the Sensor wire IS securely plugged into the ABS sensor port in the back of the HUB. I even reset the computer by pulling the 2 PCM fuses. The 2 Dash Warning Lights (ABS INOP & ASR OFF) did go off for a short while and I had the Traction Control working as well as the ABS. This only lasted for about 5 minutes, then the 2 Dash lights came back on and I was back where I started. At this point I am very frustrated. If you have any suggestions, that would be great.
Thank you,
Tom
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Wednesday, April 13th, 2011 AT 2:38 PM
Tiny
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I know it's been a while, but the problem was a break in the wire (Inside the wire casing) that attached to the ABS Sensor in the back of the wheel hub.
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Friday, October 26th, 2012 AT 1:29 PM

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