1992 Chevy Beretta electrical

Tiny
DAVESHER
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 CHEVROLET BERETTA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 16,500 MILES
I have donated a couple of times before. I will get back to you and donate again, but I have a pressing question to ask: i'M stupid, so I followed what was probably sound advice, but did something wrong to the car. With battery connected I put a screwdriver to the large starter connection post and touched it to the frame. It temporarily welded the screrwdrivere to the frame and threw sparks and pops, so I jerked it out of there fast, but the damage was done, when I went to ignition key and turned it over there weren't any dashboard indicator lights anymore. What happened, please tell me and maybe I can get the new part. Thanks; Dave
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Friday, June 26th, 2009 AT 12:27 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Dave, check the fusabile links, you probably fried on of them, or an IGN fuse in the fuse box under the hood, or in the car. If they test OK, then the starter solenoid was damaged in this mishap. The other fuse to check is the main fuse, follow the cable from the alternator to the underhood fuse block, the main fuse is there, and is probably at least 50 amp, probably 100 amp maxi fuse.
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 7:19 AM
Tiny
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Thanks i'll be back later
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
DAVESHER
  • MEMBER
I got this son a a bitch runnin again. DS
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Monday, August 24th, 2009 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Good work Dave.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2009 AT 8:18 AM
Tiny
DAVESHER
  • MEMBER
Yeah, but with credit to the great guys at Community Chevrolet in Burbank. They fixed it so fast I couldn't tell what was happening. I vowed to buy a new car from them if I ever get on my feet. DS
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Wednesday, August 26th, 2009 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
DAVESHER
  • MEMBER
Merlin: The fan never runs. Hence the overheating. I never let the temp gauge get over 3/4 hot without pulling over and shutting the car off. I don't think I have damaged the motor too much. I don't have any money to donate now, but will on Saturday, or sooner. In the meantime, could you tell me which prong at the connection of the female push-in fan motor power supply is negative and does this matter. I think it would as I don't want to blow what may still be a good fan motor. A friend suggested I jerry-rig wiring from the battery to the fan motor, him thinking the thermostat - controlled fan switch somewhrere is shot. I like his idea, but want to test the fan motor first. The push-in plug, about an inch wide, has two wires leading to it, one appeard all black, the other black with a red stripe. I can't remember now which goes where but one side of the connector Shows A, the other B. Which is negative? I could test the motor with a "fused jumper wire". If I get the fan running I got a good running car, if you don't count brakes, and the noticeably bent inward RF wheel which makes bends and turns terrifying. Please keep in mind a '89 Ram van 250 which I know of and may work on in the future, possibly replacing the Beretta. Thanks DS.
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Wednesday, August 26th, 2009 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS (3.1L - VIN T) CHART C-12, COOLING FAN CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS (3.1L) Cooling fan is ECM controlled based on inputs from coolant temperature sensor, A/C pressure sensor and Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). ECM grounds circuit No. 335, energizing cooling fan relay and turning on cooling fan. ECM grounds circuit No. 335 when coolant temperature is more than 228 F (109 C) or when A/C has been requested and A/C pressure sensor indicates high A/C pressure, about 200 psi (14.1 kg/cm 2 ). When cooling fan is turned on, ECM will keep fan energized at least 25 seconds or until vehicle speed exceeds 70 MPH. Also, if Code 14 or Code 15 is set or ECM is in fuel back-up mode, fan will run continuously. 1. With diagnostic terminal grounded, cooling fan control driver will close, which should energize cooling fan relay. 2. If A/C fan control switch or circuit is open, fan will run whenever A/C is requested. 3. With A/C clutch engaged, A/C fan control switch should open when A/C high pressure exceeds approximately 200 psi (14.1 kg/cm 2 ). This signal should cause ECM to energize cooling fan relay. 4. Disconnecting A/C pressure sensor will cause Code 66 to set. After finishing this step, clear trouble codes. 5. B+ should be available to terminals "A" and "D" when ignition is on. 6. Checks ability of ECM to ground circuit No. 335. SERVICE ENGINE SOON light should also be flashing at this point. If SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is not flashing, see DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK in BASIC TESTING article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section. 7. If cooling fan does not run at this point, circuit No. 702 or 150 is open or cooling fan motor is faulty. Diagnostic Aids If an overheating condition is suspected, verify if it is due to actual boilover. If gauge or light indicates an overheat condition and boilover is not evident, inspect gauge circuit for malfunction. If vehicle is overheating and gauge or light indicates so but cooling fan is not coming on, check coolant sensor temperature using a Scan tester. Sensor may have shifted out of calibration and should be replaced. If engine is overheating and cooling fan is on, check cooling system. NOTE: Test numbers below refer to test numbers on diagnostic chart No. 1. See Fig. 9 . NOTE: Test numbers below refer to test numbers on diagnostic chart No. 2. See Fig. 10 . Black/red stripe is power goes to fan relay, cehck relay...


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_beret_1.jpg


Relay is on relay center, right rear corner of engine bay.
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Friday, August 28th, 2009 AT 2:35 AM

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