Car stalls after battery replacement?

Tiny
ELLIEHAAN722
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 TOYOTA SEQUOIA
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
My car was slow to start up yesterday morning. I went to Orielly's, and they checked the battery, alternator and starter. Both the alternator and starter passed. And the battery tested bad. I went back in the afternoon to buy a new battery and had them change it. The guy who changed my battery almost installed the wrong size. He was almost done when he realized it was shorter. He went back to switch it with the right one. But the second one he grabbed, the positivity and negativity were on the wrong sides. So, he had to go get a third battery. He installed it. When I started the car, it turned off immediately. The employees said the system might need to relearn and they tried to help. But the car kept stalling. There’s a mechanic shop across the street so one of them asked if they could help. One of the mechanics came with a diagnostic tool but it wasn’t giving him any codes. After I was there for, I believe, an hour and a half, all the employees said I might just have to drive it and two foot it and see if the system relearns. I drove it for about 10-15 minutes. It kept stalling on me when I would slow down with no foot on the gas or when I would come to a stop. I am not great with 2-foot driving. My husband drove it to work, which is about a 20-minute drive. When he came home after work it was still doing the same thing. I googled and came across your solution. About driving for up to 30 minutes. My question is, do I need to drive it without it stalling for 30 minutes or more? Do I need to drive somewhere where I come to frequent stops or something like a freeway where I do not stop?
Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 7:08 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

I suspect you read through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls-idles-too-high-low-after-dead-or-replaced-battery

I have a couple of questions. First, does it run normally once the vehicle is moving? Has the check engine light turned on and stayed on with the engine running?

To answer your question, try to keep it running for approximately 30 minutes. The driving style shouldn't make a difference. Also, since it took three tries to get the right battery in place, make sure they didn't accidentally disconnect any vacuum hoses, any sensors at the air box, or the air intake tube between the air box and the throttle body.

If everything checks good and driving doesn't take care of the issue, then try this.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Next, remove the positive battery terminal.

Using a zip tie or similar, tie the cable ends together so they touch. Press the brake pedal and hold it for a few minutes and allow the vehicle to sit for approximately 10 minutes.

Reconnect the positive battery terminal. Then, reconnect the negative cable. Make sure both are properly tightened, and the cables are in good condition.,

By performing the above steps, you are performing a hard reset. This allows all capacitors to drain. Basically, you are starting over again with a clean system, so expect the relearn procedure to start over. I am hoping that allows the idle speed to return to normal after the 30-minute drive time.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care

Joe

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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
ELLIEHAAN722
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi! Yes, I did read through the article. And yes, the car runs normally once I get it moving. When I went to pick up my son from school today it took a few tries for me to get the car to stay on. It would turn on and then back off right away. But it didn’t stall on me when it finally did stay on. And then an hour later when I went to pick up my daughter, the engine light did come on and it stayed on. Car still seemed normal driving and it didn’t stall during this time. My husband is driving it to work soon so he’ll let me know if it stalls on him. And thank you for all the info. I’m going to pass it along to my husband and we will try everything tomorrow.
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

Thanks for the update. If the check engine light has turned on, have your husband stop at an auto parts store on his way home tomorrow and get them to scan the computer for diagnostic trouble codes. If the light came on, there will be codes.

Have him write the codes down and let me know what they are.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
Just to jump in. Over time, carbon will build up on the throttle plate and the engine computer will adapt to the buildup. Once the battery is depleted, cables disconnected/replaced, the computer starts over as if the throttle was clean but in reality, it is not.

My recommendation would be to disconnect the battery and remove the fresh air hose to the throttle body. Clean the throttle body by spraying throttle cleaner on a clean shop towel and wiping down the throttle plate and all around inside.

Here is a link on how to do it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

After, reconnect battery terminal. It will idle high until it starts to learn and then it will slowly come down to normal. If your husband has the system scanned and there is engine idle fault codes or throttle body codes, then the dirty throttle theory would apply to that. Good luck and let us know if this helped.
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
ELLIEHAAN722
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Okay, I just wanted to give a quick update. The car did not stall on me at all today. But I did notice, yesterday and today when I go to pick up my kids from school (about 6 hours after I last drove the car), I have I hard time starting it. It takes a couple tries and I have to put my foot on the gas right away. So that seems to be the only issue now since it hasn’t stalled on me when slowing or coming to a stop. I just got back from Orielly's and had them run a test for the engine light. I attached a photo. He said it gave him 5 codes. But it game him the code P0420 4 times and then the code C1203 once. He also said these aren’t causing the stalling of the vehicle. Also, my husband will be checking everything you both have mentioned this weekend. Thank you! I will keep you guys updated.
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Thursday, December 8th, 2022 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

The C code isn't related to the issues. That is specific to the ABS, Traction Control, and Vehicle Stability Control circuits. Do you have any of those lights on?

As for the P0420 four times, that is an interesting one. It may have appeared as a current code, one in memory, or pending. That's the only reason I can think of for it to show that many times.

Do you notice any odd odors or smoke from the exhaust?

Let me know.

Take care and we look forward to hearing what is found.
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Thursday, December 8th, 2022 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
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As I stated earlier, you need to start off with cleaning the throttle body. Your Engine Control Module has learned the old value it compensated for. Now that the battery has been replaced it thinks it has a clean throttle when in reality it is not. That will give you idle stall issues and hard starts where you need to keep your foot on the accelerator pedal.

As for code P0420, anytime a check engine light comes on it triggers the ABS light on also because it disables the communication. Newer cars set off more codes and more warning lights because of a check engine light. Once again, I will say clean the throttle body to start off. If the light was on prior with the same code, then chances are you will need a new catalytic converter.
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Thursday, December 8th, 2022 AT 10:12 PM

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