Car dies or quits only in drive

Tiny
ROADRUNNER73
  • MEMBER
  • 1965 PLYMOUTH FURY
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 36 MILES
The car runs great when it is in park and idling or stepping on gas in park. Once you put it in drive and go about a quarter to half a mile the car will quit, like turning the car off. It seems the more you drive the more it does it. Now, What I have replaced, Carburetor, fuel pump, starter relay, and voltage regulator.
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Thursday, August 14th, 2014 AT 2:33 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC II
  • MEMBER
IT WILL IMMEDIATELY FIRE BACK UP?

IF NOT - WILL IT (FIRE UP/ OR WANT TO BETTER) IF YOU DUMP 2 TEASPOONS (OR EQUIVALENT) OF GAS DOWN THE CARB?

RESULTS?

CAN YOU TEST FOR SPARK DURING THIS "DOWN PERIOD" IF THE "SPLASH OF FUEL" FAILED?

STILL GOT POINTS? OR HAVE YOU UPGRADED?

THE MORE INFO, THE MERRIER!

KEEP US INFORMED

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, August 14th, 2014 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
What ignition system is in this? And does it have amechanical fuel pump? From the sounds of it it could be a grounded out set of points and or a ground wire broken inside dist that goes from points to plate, dist. It cold also be a fuel pump problem or low float level inside carb. Need to know more info. Dream cruise this weekend here lol. Don't want it running like that
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Thursday, August 14th, 2014 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
ROADRUNNER73
  • MEMBER
Yes, it does fire back up, it still has the points and condenser. Put on the new carburetor, first than the fuel pump after it died. The first new fuel pump lasted about 2 weeks. The 2nd pump didn't have enough p.S.I. 1.4. This is when I started having running problems, I noticed that the fuel pump was not keeping the clear gas filter full of gas so changed out the fuel pump again to a 1.8 p.S.I. Pump. STILL DIES! I read on the web that it might be the starter relay or the voltage regulator put no go!
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Friday, August 15th, 2014 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
ROADRUNNER73
  • MEMBER
The broken wire on the points will be easy to check out, I'm bit of a novice on some things, a grounded out set of points, I'm not sure what that means, please explain. If I put in another set of points, Do know where I can get a timing light?
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Friday, August 15th, 2014 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC II
  • MEMBER
SO FAR

THOSE 2 ITEMS ARE THE FURTHEST FROM MY DIAGNOSIS, MAYBE AFTER THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE! Lol!

I'M STICKING WITH FUEL (OR SOMETHING IN THAT SYSTEM)

OR IGNITION

THE "NOT FULL FUEL FILTER" IS NORMAL (MOST OF THE TIME) AS ONLY WHAT'S NEEDED GOES THRU

YOU MIGHT VERIFY THIS BY HOLDING THE OUTLET END UP (VERTICAL) AND WATCH IT FULLY FILL AS IT MUST FILL UP TO REACH THE UPPER HOSE

STILL, WITHOUT RULING OUT A CARB PROBLEM (OR MAYBE A FILTER, A SMALL ONE, SCREWED INTO THE CARB, THAT YOU MAY HAVE OVERLOOKED, THAT MAY BE MOSTLY STOPPED UP) I HAVE SEEN FOLKS THAT DID NOT KNOW THAT WAS A FILTER - NOT PART OF THE CARB. CASE IN POINT FELLER W/ 1976 FORD F-150 2 BBL CARB AT ADVANCE AUTO PART'S PARKING LOT

LET'S RULE OUT A TANK TO THE FUEL PUMP PROBLEM

WE'RE GONNA "JUG IT" (THAT IS, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A RETURN LINE TO THE TANK)

LET'S GET A ANTIFREEZE JUG (OR SIMILAR) AND DRILL A HOLE BIG ENOUGH IN THE JUG'S CAP FOR THE RUBBER HOSE THAT ENTERS YOUR FUEL PUMP- SUCTION SIDE (GAS TANK SIDE)

(MINE, ON MY JEEPS WOULD BE 5/16)

TIE/ WIRE THE JUG NEAR THE FUEL PUMP TO THE VEHICLE

TAKE THE "FUEL TANK" HOSE LOOSE AT THE FUEL PUMP

USING A LONG ENOUGH, NEW/ FRESH PIECE OF HOSE, STICK IT INTO THE DRILLED HOLE ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM OF THE JUG

THEN HOOK IT TO THE FUEL PUMP

NOW, THE SCREEN/ SOCK/ CRIMPED OR COLLAPSED LINE/ OR ANY HOLE PRIOR TO THE PUMP IS NO LONGER IN THE EQUATION

FILL THE JUG WITH FUEL, AND DRIVE IT 'ROUND AND 'ROUND THE BLOCK, JUST IN CASE YOU MIGHT HAVE TO WALK BACK!

DID WE MAKE IT FURTHER?

THE MEDIC
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Friday, August 15th, 2014 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC II
  • MEMBER
I CAN ALSO ASSIST YOU ON THE TIMING

LET'S ONLY PLAY WITH ONE THING AT A TIME

MORE FACTORS MAY MESS US UP!

THE MEDIC
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Friday, August 15th, 2014 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC II
  • MEMBER
AGAIN

MECHANICAL OR ELECTRIC PUMP?

NUTHIN' WRONG WITH A MECHANICAL- CHEAPER AND SEEM TO BE A LOT MORE RELIABLE

THE MEDIC
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Friday, August 15th, 2014 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Fuel pressure on this as well as volume is in pic and from your description is to low. Also the ground wire for dist shold go from one of the screws that hold the points to either the plate just below or on the side of dist housing. If you don't have that it won't run because it can't complete the circuit. Timing shold be about 8-10 but that can be checked as long as it doesn't spark knock. A bad voltage regulator will not stop a Chrysler product from running, not charging yes but nothing to do with running. Also Chrysler's used to have a fuel filter on the rubber hose that came from tank to fuel pump, it may be a clogged filter or the hose is sucking together giving you the low pressure. Those are cheap items to fix.
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Friday, August 15th, 2014 AT 4:28 PM

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