Engine misfire

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The idea that the voltage is different is odd. Are you sure there isn't a corrosion issue with all but one?

Joe
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
JEFF SORDYL
  • MEMBER
The electrical connector read 11 volts with the key on. The injector was unplugged and I tested the 2 post on the injector itself in ohms. Because no voltage connected. Tested with multi-meter. I went ahead and changed the connector plug. Now I'm sealing the tank filler tube (takes forever to dry in the cold here in Michigan) it the sealing doesn't work I'm going to order 6 rebuilt injectors. Then if they doesn't work I'm taking it to a mechanic in town. I can't keep bothering you for free advice. But I do appreciate the help!
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
JEFF SORDYL
  • MEMBER
(2nd of 2 messages) fuel fill tube was severely pitted from rust on the bottom half of the pipe. I cleaned it up really good with brass brush and got down to bare metal the used. Truck bed liner spray to seal and cover the whole thing. Bed liner works great under vehicles and it doesn't flake or peel off. Rust is a big problem here in Michigan because of all the salt they put on the roads. I'm pretty sure this is going to fix the P0300.
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Thursday, March 12th, 2020 AT 12:45 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Let me know if it helps. Also, I'm in PA. Isn't rust a great thing? LOL Ugh, everything falls apart.

Joe
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Thursday, March 12th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
JEFF SORDYL
  • MEMBER
Well I found the problem! I did my own smoke test and found I had a leak where the evap line connects to purge valve. It was a little loose so I used permatex to seal it up! I also sealed the gas filler tube and replaced the evap canister and I probably didn't need to? I'm so glad I fixed the problem. Thanks for suggesting the smoke test, I never would have found that leak. Thanks a million! Stay safe with this virus going around.
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Glad to hear you got it fixed. And, you are very welcome. Feel free to come back anytime you need something.

Take care and you, too stay safe.

Joe
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
JEFF SORDYL
  • MEMBER
Hello again. Found out I have a bad cylinder or burnt valve on #3 cylinder. Only had about 50psi shop said other cylinders were 150psi. Would it be easier to replace valve's on #3 or I can get a new head for $230.00 what would you suggest? I've never done valve's. Thanks again.
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

If you can get a complete new head for that price, I would replace it. Doing a valve job isn't a five minute job and there is always a chance a valve will need replaced or there is damage to the head.

________________________________________

Here are directions for replacement of a cylinder head. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_______________________________________

2005 Buick Allure (CANADA) V6-3.8L
Cylinder Head Replacement - Left
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Cylinder Head Assembly Service and Repair Procedures Cylinder Head Replacement - Left
CYLINDER HEAD REPLACEMENT - LEFT
Cylinder Head Replacement - Left

Tools Required
J45059 Electronic Torque Angle Meter

Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
3. Drain the engine oil.
4. Drain the cooling system.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the air cleaner intake duct.
7. Remove the ignition control module and the bracket from the left cylinder head.
8. Remove the right engine mount strut bracket.
9. Remove the left engine mount strut bracket.
10. Remove the lower intake manifold.
11. Remove the left spark plugs from the left cylinder head.
12. Remove the left exhaust manifold.
13. Remove the left valve rocker arm cover.
14. Remove the left rocker arms and the push rods.

Pic 1

15. Remove the left cylinder head bolts. Discard the cylinder head bolts.
16. Remove the left cylinder head.

Pic 2

17. Remove the cylinder head gasket.
18. Remove the caps, the springs, the valves and the seals from the cylinder head.
19. Clean the gasket mating surfaces on the cylinder head, the cylinder block and the intake manifold.
20. Clean the cylinder block bolt hole threads.
21. Inspect the engine block.
22. Inspect the cylinder head.

Installation Procedure
1. Install the valves, the seals, the springs and the caps to the cylinder head.

Pic 3

2. Position the head gasket with the arrow pointing to the front of the engine.

Notice: Head gaskets are not interchangeable. The head gasket must be installed with the arrow pointing to the front of the engine. Installing the head gasket in any other direction will cause gasket failure and possible engine failure.

Pic 4

3. Install the cylinder head.

Pic 5

4. Install the new cylinder head bolts (1-8).
1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts (1-8) in the following sequence to 50 Nm (37 ft. Lbs.).
2. Use the J45059 to rotate the cylinder head bolts in the following sequence (1-8) an additional 120 degrees.

Notice: This bolt is designed to permanently stretch when tightened. The correct part number fastener must be used to replace this type of fastener. Do not use a bolt that is stronger in this application. If the correct bolt is not used, the parts will not be tightened correctly. The system or the components may be damaged.

Notice: This engine uses special torque to yield head bolts. This design bolt requires a special tightening procedure. Failure to follow the given procedure will cause head gasket failure and possible engine damage.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

5. Install the left push rods and rocker arms.
6. Install the left valve rocker arm cover.
7. Install the left exhaust manifold.
8. Install the left spark plugs to the left cylinder head.
9. Install the lower intake manifold.
10. Install the left engine mount strut bracket.
11. Install the right engine mount strut bracket.
12. Install the ignition control module bracket and the ignition control module to the left cylinder head.
13. Install the air cleaner intake duct.
14. Fill the cooling system.
15. Fill the crankcase with engine oil.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
17. Inspect for leaks.

___________________________

At least on this engine, you don't have to worry about the timing when removing the head. Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. Don't be worried about doing it. I'll do my best to help, so you are not alone doing it.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
JEFF SORDYL
  • MEMBER
Thanks. I replaced both head gaskets so I should be okay. I have to get another head gasket and bolts. It's a bummer because I have new gaskets and bolts on it but I want to do it correctly so I don't have to do it again. I'll keep you posted.
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Friday, April 10th, 2020 AT 2:01 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You are very welcome. Let me know how things work out when you finish.

Take care, stay healthy, and Happy Easter.

Joe
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Friday, April 10th, 2020 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
JEFF SORDYL
  • MEMBER
I changed the head and it was running like a charm for 2 weeks. I followed the step by step instructions you posted and saved me a lot of work. After I put the head on exactly like you said, new gasket, bolts and used a torque angle meter. A few weeks later a code popped up saying bank one running to lean and then evap system code gross leak detected. The only thing I question in my work is, I used the fairly new lower intake gaskets. I ordered the lower intake gaskets and I'll try it again. I sent an earlier message with Obd2 report but I think I hit reply and erased it? Hope your staying safe in Pennsylvania.
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Saturday, May 9th, 2020 AT 12:05 AM

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