2000 Cadillac SLS SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT

Tiny
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  • 2000 CADILLAC SLS

Computer problem
2000 Cadillac SLS V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 92000 miles

I just replaced my engine because I cracked the block of the original motor (2/6/09) and the mechanic could not start the car. I had to tow it to the Cadillac dealership to have them start it. They said the other mechanic didn't ground the motor. Now it starts. My "service engine light" is on. Is this normal? What could have the other mechanic forget to connect for the car not starting? Do I need to drive it a couple of days for the car to go thru with it's cycles? How long does this take?

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Tuesday, February 17th, 2009 AT 12:59 PM

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Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Leaving a ground disconnected could result in the car not starting, or other symptoms as well. The check engine light is on for a reason, my guess is something is unplugged. Raise the hood and check for the obvious, the mass airflow sensor, in the air snorkel between the filter and the engine. It will run with this disconnected. If that is connected and you see nothing obvious, have it checked for codes. I can coach you through extracting codes if necessary, let me know.

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Tuesday, February 17th, 2009 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
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Ok. I'll chk 2morrow @ lunch.

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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
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I checked and couln't find anything (as if iknow what i'm looking at) but I did notice that I couln't find oil heater cord. My old enigine had one. I could plug the car in on frigid nights (PA winters). If this is missing, could it be a reason for the car not starting? Remember, once the dealership grounded the motor to the frame, she started right up! Without that ground, all i'll get are lights, no ignition reconition or starter crank.

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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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No, the block heater shouldn't have anything to do with it. I'm assuming the car starts and runs, we just have a check engine light, right? Do this. With the key on, not running, push and hold the info button up, and the on/off together until we get into what is called segment check. All display segments will light, release buttons. It should show 'all?', Pushing info down will start scrolling through modules(aprox 22) in alphabetical order. Scroll until you reach 'PCM', push the info up, and you will either see 'PCM codes', or 'PCM clear codes'. Info down will toggle between one, or the other, we want PCM codes. When 'PCM codes' is on the info center, push info up to select. Have a pen and paper to write down which codes you have. You might have one, or multiple. It should say which is current, and which is history. Regardless, if there is multiple codes, let's clear them. Push on/off button and it should back up to the PCM codes/PCM clear codes option. Select clear codes with info down, and execute with info up, it should say codes cleared or no pcm codes. Cycle the key, and drive, or do whatever until the check engine light comes back on. Repeat above procedure, and this will relate to your fault. You can end diagnostics by turning the key off, or pressing any button on the left side(eng/met, info reset, etc. Hopefully this helps, there may be discrepancies in my instructions, since in the 11 years I have been with Cadillac, there have been some variances in the On-Board diagnostic architecture. Let me know your success

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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
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I did what you you told me and it worked temporarely, I did this three times. Howerver, yesterday (2/22/09), I wanted to check to see if my transmission fluid was full, because I didn't have a passing gear, and I noticed that MAP senor (the sensor connected to the air intake) was not connected. Now, the light stays off and I have a passing gear. We'll know all is well when it passes inspection this week. Thank you for all of your help. I learnd something new.

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Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 5:23 AM
Tiny
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I think I thank u to soon. The service engine light came on as I was driving to work. The car started missing. I pulled over this time I saw error codes P0101, P0404. I cleared them and the car ran fine. I took it in for inspection and it failed. The tech said I don't have enough miles on it. Does he mean after I cleared (i didn't tell him I cleared it myself) the PCM? I driven it for two weeks, isn't that long enough? Or start all over?

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Tuesday, February 24th, 2009 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Each time you issue a clear codes, it resets the I/M flags to unready. I believe a p0404 is an egr fault, and if that is sticking wide open you will have rough run and potentially a p0101.

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Tuesday, February 24th, 2009 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
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Well, the light stayed out till friday night. The night before I was supposed to take it in for inspection. The guys at Tires plus say I need an air injector pump (something like that). I never heard of it. They say its located underneath the fender and its gonna cost me another $500! Does this sound right? Should I go somewhere else? Unfortuntley, today is the 28th. My sticker expires today, I don't know what to do!

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Saturday, February 28th, 2009 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
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Ok. This is the trouble code. I read a GM post that a bad diverter may be the problem. Where is this located? Can I buy it separetly? Where is "bank 1"?

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Monday, March 9th, 2009 AT 5:13 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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You didn't include a code number, is it still P0404? The diverter valves you are speaking of, are vacuum operated check valves. One is at the center of the rear bank(which is bank 1), the other is on a bracket at the water pump cover area. The bank 1/bank 2 term relates to which bank of cylinders #1 is in(Bank 1), or cylinder #2(Bank 2). When you start the vehicle, do you hear a pump run for a few minutes at the left front fender area? This would be your air pump, and it should run at startup.

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Monday, March 9th, 2009 AT 10:21 PM
Tiny
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I'm sorry about the code number, it's P1415.

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Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 AT 5:17 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Reviewing the information, you have dual air pumps. One is at rh fender, and one lh fender. In the under hood fuse box, there should be fuses labeled Bank 1 AIR and Bank 2 AIR(label is on the underside of cover). Check and see if the bank 1 fuse is blown. If it is not blown, check at startup if both pumps are running. The hose from the pump to the shut-off valves can be removed to see if there is fresh air flow from the pumps to the valves. You almost need a scan tool to do some activations and monitoring of o2 sensor change when the pumps are on to determine if the valves are working. If you can verify that both(or at least B 1) pump is working and air is present up to the valve, it is almost safe to say you have a faulty valve. The vacuum solenoid controls both valves at the same time, you would think if a solenoid was bad it would have codes for both, or a general AIR fault p0410. You also have relays for each pump to consider. If the fuse is blown for bank 1, you probably have a shorted pump, or most likely pump connector. Has this vehicle had the frame out of it, i.E. For oil leak correction/body work/or trans repair? Often times if the pumps have been disconnected electrically and reconnected, it reveals a poor connection that may have been fine until it was tampered with. If you have, and know your way around a hand vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the Bank 1 check valve with the engine running and the fresh air hose disconnected. You should have exhaust flowing through with vacuum applied, nothing when vacuum not applied.

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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 12:54 AM
Tiny
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Yes, i've blown the old engine in Janurary. Cracked the old block from one end to the other right under the pistons. Is this fuse one of those clear see-thru type or those square (boxy) types. I don't have any speciality tools. How much is this going to cost me?

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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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As stated, the legend for the fuse block is under the cover that you remove to access the fuse block. It should be a large, clear, maxi fuse in a cluster of several the same style. You did not say whether the air pumps run at startup. I do not know costs, I am merely a person on the repair end. If you can do the diagnosis, you will save. If you don't pinpoint the problem, it is either going to cost more in unnecessary part replacement, or paying someone to diagnose it accurately. Try contacting the folks that put your engine in, see if they are willing to participate. They may be the cause of your grief although, the service procedure for engine replacement may have called for air pump removal or disconnect. It is from experience with cases similar to yours, that I don't disconnect the air pump(s) during a repair. The fuse may not be blown, it may be a poor connection at the pump. You need to determine that both pumps run, otherwise the proper diagnosis should include a scan tool that can read data, and perform special functions like commanding the pumps to run, and cycling the vacuum solenoid.

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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 10:13 PM

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